RGM has introduced a new perpetual calendar, their first since the Model 103-R Minute Repeater Perpetual which was introduced in the 1990s. The new watch, dubbed the 501-PC, has classic RGM aesthetics and incorporates a new module from Dubois-Depraz for the calendar complication (not unlike another perpetual calendar to debut recently). While the watch is not inexpensive by any means, the use of a module fixed to a mass produced movement does keep costs down somewhat compared to a fully in-house design, and serves as another example of the many small ways traditional higher end complications are being democratized across the larger watch marketplace.
The 501-PC has a fairly traditional perpetual calendar layout, with a 12:00 subdial indicating the months and leap year, a 3:00 subdial showing the date, a moonphase at 6:00, and the day of the week in a subdial at 9:00. The dial layout and design takes inspiration from 19th century pocket watches, a frequent source of inspiration for RGM over the years, and is rendered in white enamel. Black painted Roman numerals and blued hands add additional depth and historic coherence to the design. It’s all very traditional and the antithesis of flashy. Again, exactly what you’d expect from RGM.
The case is stainless steel and measures 39mm in diameter and is 11.5mm thick. Like the Fears linked above, which this watch is sure to draw comparisons to thanks to the movement, that’s an incredibly wearable and approachable size. The case is vertically brushed on the side with alternating polished elements and lugs that appear to be a bit on the long side (no lug to lug measurement has been provided).
According to RGM, the movement decision came down to a desire to pick a caliber that would be reliable and easy to service. The ETA 2892 base is a solid choice in that regard, but RGM knew that they’d have to make adjustments to the aesthetic of the caliber for their customers who demand something a little more visually interesting. To that end, they replaced the automatic bridges and winding rotor for bridges with a smaller rotor-bearing diameter, and added a solid gold rotor. The changes effectively open up the movement, making it more visually impressive. The module, which appears to be nearly identical in functionality to the one used in the Fears QP from earlier this year, is of course quite thin, which allows for the slender overall case height.
The 501-PC has a retail price of $39,900. Again, not inexpensive by any means, and I’m sure many will have similar pricing objections to this release as we saw when the Fears QP was announced. RGM, for their part, has been selling watches well into the five figures for many years now, so the sticker shock for their repeat customers is likely not as severe.
More information can be found at the RGM website here.
