Every so often, I find that I need to talk about the watches of Ralph Lauren. It’s possible, I think, that the Ralph Lauren brand is one of the most underrated, misunderstood corners of watchmaking. Most casual and even not-so-casual observers probably assume that Ralph Lauren watches are “fashion watches,” and it makes a certain amount of sense why they’d reach that conclusion. While many of the watches in their collection flirt with the fashion watch moniker, there’s a lot of interesting design and watchmaking happening at the higher end, and I’ve always found it fascinating how their watches complement the extremely established aesthetic of the brand. Ralph Lauren is so omnipresent in culture, the mention of the name immediately conjures something in the mind’s eye, and a lot of the watches do a remarkably good job of reflecting that.
Two recent Ralph Lauren releases have caught my eye in the last few weeks, and they’ve flown mostly under the radar to this point, which I think is a shame. First up, the new Nautical collection. These are 42mm stainless steel watches that are not exactly divers or sport watches, but take their inspiration from marine chronometers and other instruments you might encounter on a ship. This is underscored by the weathered brass finish (a PVD treatment) to the case and bracelet. I normally have mixed feelings about the application of faux patina, but I can’t deny that I love the look of a weathered case, apparently whether it’s natural or applied simply to create an aesthetic effect.
There are two dial options, one in off white and the other in black. The dial layout recalls the brand’s 867 collection of dress watches, which uses a mix of Roman and Arabic numerals. Also in common with that collection is the use of a high end movement made by Piaget, the automatic RL514 in this case. The new Nautical collection watches retail for $12,000. That’s an expensive proposition to be sure, and there are many, many great options if you’re shopping for a watch in the $10-$15,000 segment. What I think this watch offers is a clarity of vision and intent that is hard to find. It’s not generic, so if the style and inspiration resonate, there won’t be much else on the market that really exists as a comp. Whether that’s worth the price tag is of course a more personal question.
The other recent release from Ralph Lauren that is, to me, even more interesting, is a new batch of watches in the brand’s Western series. The Western watch is a point of fascination for me (and others, it’s been called the “greatest American watch ever made” by Instagrammer @watchopinions, which is an amazing take even if I don’t fully agree with it). The new Western Cushion 38mm is a scaled down version of the watch from the 42mm watch, but it still features the hand engraved silver case and, in these initial variants, dials in black lacquer, off-white, and turquoise stone.
The new Western watches feature the same RL514 calibers found in the Nautical pieces, and leather straps embossed with motifs inspired by the American west. These watches are quintessentially “not for everyone,” obviously, but I’ve always been a fan for the way they lean into such a specific, possibly imagined vision of the American Southwest, something Ralph Lauren has been trading in for years.
The new Western Cushion 38mm watches retail for $26,000 in white and black, and $29,000 in turquoise. Ralph Lauren
