MB&F introduced three new versions of the Legacy Machine Perpetual, bringing colourful gemstone-set bezels to one of the brand’s most recognisable complications.
Named the LM Perpetual ‘Chromatic’ Editions, the new series combines the architectural perpetual calendar developed by Stephen McDonnell with bezels set with baguette-cut sapphires or rubies.
The first two editions are crafted in 18k white gold and feature bezels set with either blue or purple sapphires sourced from Madagascar and Sri Lanka, while the third version pairs an 18k red gold case with red rubies from Mozambique.
Each bezel is composed of 48 baguette-cut gemstones set by hand by Geneva-based specialist STG Creation. Despite the addition of the gemstone setting, the proportions of the case remain unchanged at 44 mm in diameter and 17.5 mm in height.
The new editions also introduce colour-matched PVD-treated hands corresponding to their respective gemstones or case material.
Purple hands accompany the purple sapphire version, blue hands distinguish the blue sapphire model, while the ruby-set edition adopts 5N PVD-treated hands echoing the tone of the red gold case.
Introduced in 2015 and developed with Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, the Legacy Machine Perpetual reinterpreted the traditional perpetual calendar through a movement conceived entirely from the ground up.
Its patented “mechanical processor” replaces the conventional grand levier system used in most perpetual calendars. Rather than assuming a default 31-day month and skipping redundant dates during changeover, the LM Perpetual uses a 28-day base and mechanically adds extra days when required, contributing to smoother transitions between months.
The system also incorporates a safety mechanism that automatically disengages the quickset pushers during date changeover, while a dedicated pusher allows easy leap-year adjustment.
The fully integrated manual-winding calibre comprises 581 components and uses twin mainspring barrels to deliver a power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Beating at 2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations per hour), the movement places the perpetual calendar indications on the dial side beneath the suspended balance wheel that has become a defining element of the Legacy Machine collection.
Hours and minutes are displayed at 12 o’clock, framed by the curved balance bridge, while the day, date, month, retrograde leap year indicator, and power reserve are distributed around the movement through floating subdials appearing to hover above the calibre without visible supports.
One of the technical characteristics of the movement is the unusually long balance staff connecting the suspended balance wheel on the dial side to the escapement positioned on the reverse of the movement.
Visible through the sapphire crystal case back, the calibre features elaborate hand-finishing including polished bevels, Geneva waves, internal angles, and hand-engraved details executed in a style inspired by 19th-century watchmaking.
Awarded the Best Calendar Watch Prize at the 2016 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the Legacy Machine Perpetual remains one of MB&F’s most technically distinctive interpretations of the perpetual calendar complication.
The MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual ‘Chromatic’ Editions are each limited to 8 pieces and priced at CHF 228,000 excluding VAT. mbandf.com
