What We Know
Why am I, the tallest editor in Hodinkee history, so weirdly excited about the smallest Oris release in recent memory? It’s questions like this that don’t have easy answers, but we’ve landed here all the same, with all 6’7″ of me slightly giddy at the release of a new Big Crown Pointer Date in a 29mm case. Okay, more than slightly. I love a good pointer date, but I never considered that the smaller-wristed among us (some of them maybe ladies) would be well served by a tiny little version of Oris’ long-running icon. Well, I’m glad Oris decided to make it happen.
With a stainless steel case measuring 29mm by 11.4mm and a miniature 35.5mm lug-to-lug, the watch’s proportions look so wildly normal that you could be fooled into thinking it is like any other previously released version. Which is a good thing. Nothing wonky or distorted, just the fluted bezel and big crown (now tapered for comfort and to be more ornate), with a slightly more daintily printed dial with a mix of printed numerals and dots (to keep from overloading a small dial with print), reworked hands (without the contrast date pointer), and dials with a mix of central sunburst and outer grained finishing. The watches come with a black dial and silver hands, or a pinky rose-toned dial and orangey-rose hands.
Inside the case is an Oris 534 movement, with a 25.6mm diameter and automatic winding, beating at 4Hz and with a 42-hour power reserve. Yes, the power reserve is a bit—well—reserved, but it’s fair for the size. That Oris movement is based on the ETA 2671 and was found in older rectangular Oris Pointer Dates that have long since been discontinued. Now it’s back and more aligned with the rest of the brand’s releases. Also, the watch has a sapphire caseback, so you can actually see the movement and yet still get a 50m water resistance.
Both watches are available now either on leather straps or stainless steel bracelets with butterfly folding clasps. The retail price is CHF 1,950 on the strap and CHF 2,150 on the bracelet (around $2,400 and $2,700).
What We Think
What more can I say that I haven’t already said? I don’t really know why I like these so much. I am never going to wear a 29mm Big Crown Pointer Date. And yet, after years of seeing brands make what are ostensibly ladies’ watches that can’t get out of the loop of “shrink it and pink it,” I get strangely excited to see a brand that just makes a good watch at a more feminine size, without falling into that trap. I like diamond indices, but not everything needs diamond indices. I like a pink sports watch (I’d still wear the pink Tudor from a few years back), but not everything needs to be a pink sports watch.
What Oris has done here is similar to Moser’s approach earlier this year with their 28mm Streamliners. They look like Streamliners. Streamliners that other wrists can wear. It’s a novel idea—unfortunately novel. So no, I won’t be wearing these watches. But I don’t think they need to be hype pieces or stacked watches to be good. They’re just good for someone else.
The Basics
Brand: Oris
Model: Big Crown Pointer Date 29mm
Diameter: 29mm
Thickness: 11.4mm
Lug-to-Lug: 35.5mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial Color: Black or rose-gold-toned
Indexes: Printed
Lume: None
Water Resistance: 50m
Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap or stainless steel metal bracelet with butterfly folding clasp
The Movement
Caliber: Oris 534
Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, instantaneous pointer date, stop seconds function
Diameter: 25.6mm
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4 Hz
Chronometer Certified: No
Pricing & Availability
Price: CHF 1,950 on strap, CHF 2,150 on bracelet
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No
For more, click here.
