Last year, you may have remembered our coverage of the Classic One from US-based independent watch brand Havid Nagan. It was the brand’s first round watch, marking a departure from its earlier cushion-cased HN series. But founder Aren Bazerkanian is turning back to the distinct, almost square silhouette of its earlier models with Havid Nagan’s latest endeavor, the HN02.
But that’s not to say that the Classic One was simply a blip in a collection of cushion cases—rather, it’s clear that the new HN02 actually draws from a lot of the aesthetic developments that the Classic One brought to the table, most notably in the very unique layered dial design as well as the case.
This grade 5 titanium case, while still cushioned, is quite an evolution from the earlier HN00 and HN01 designs with its significantly more traditional lugs. And while the previous shape was distinctive, I think the more classic lugs help tone down the overall feel of the HN02 on the wrist, lending it a more conservative wearing experience and shortening the lug-to-lug length on smaller wrists. I think the more traditional case shape is quite welcome in letting the flamboyancy of the dial shine here without overwhelming the entire watch. The HN02 also brings forth the compact, dress-watch-like sizing found in the Classic One, with a 38mm diameter and a thin 9-millimeter case height.
The HN02 comes in two variations, with one in standard titanium and the other in a dark DLC-coated finish. DLC coating means the casing will be more durable and better protected against scratches than with a traditional PVD process, though fingerprints are bound to appear quickly during wear. It’s why I don’t like most coated cases, but if orange is your color, a DLC-coated case is the only way to get it.
The non-coated titanium case gets a blue “Azure” dial, while the DLC-coated case gets that vivid orange “Ember” dial. But to define the dial merely by a color is a disservice, as there are quite a few visual elements framed by the case. The raised center section is the main attraction, with its wavy guilloché pattern engine-turned by hand, galvanized to achieve the desired color, and then treated in a grand feu enameling process. It’s a nice option: a flinqué enamel (engine-turned, then applied with glass powder) dial, which is certainly a major reason the HN02 is what I believe to be the brand’s most expensive model, at $18,000.
The center enamel section is cut out towards the bottom to allow for an interesting execution of the small seconds subdial. Framed by metal on its bottom half and by the enamel section on its top half, the subdial is executed in a transparent disc, with printed markings and a snailed texture for a slightly more legible look. Sitting behind these two parts is a smoked sapphire disc with an applied and printed minute track, then a decorative metal ring.
Bazerkanian tells me that the smoked sapphire will be darker, and the metallic ring more textured in the production pieces. Behind it all, and visible under the small seconds subdial and around the minutes track, is the exposed mainplate, with perlage decoration throughout. My favorite little touch is the cutout at 3 o’clock that exposes the keyless works, adding a touch of mechanical whimsy to an otherwise layered—but not quite openworked—dial.
To get a closer look at the movement, all you have to do is turn the watch around to see the manually wound AMT6600 caliber in action, bespoke in its design and produced by Sellita’s AMT custom caliber department. Also found in that previous Classic One, this caliber is partially skeletonized and then given a high-contrast finish. Bridges are matte and frosted, so the polishing of the anglage shines through, especially in the jewel sinks, and the other portions of the mainplate and bridges are galvanized with a gold hue and highly textured. Purely from an aesthetic standpoint, this is probably one of the most interesting caliber decorations I’ve come across at this price point, offering a taste of haute horlogerie many times its price while still feeling individual in its execution. Specs are contemporary, with a 28,800 VpH (4 Hz) beat rate and COSC certification for added peace of mind.
On the wrist, the HN02 is a very fun watch, and many folks in the office were quick to ask what I was wearing. On paper, much of what the watch accomplishes visually might seem to verge on doing too much. But the smaller case size and more traditional lug design of this HN02 offer that much-needed restraint. I’ll be completely honest here—the previous Havid Nagan designs haven’t really resonated with me all that much. They just weren’t my speed. But the HN02 feels like the first design from the brand that I could see myself wearing often, mostly because the dressier vibe of this design occupies a much less explored niche for me. The $18,000 price tag, however, narrows the appeal, as it is in a complicated segment of the market where watches like the HN02 can really only speak to the most open-minded collectors looking for a truly unique watch for their collection.
And while the guilloché-and-enamel dial is well executed, I would love to see Bazerkanian offer an even more restrained take on the HN02 down the line, especially since I would assume the price point would come down quite a bit with less handwork on the dial. I love the silhouette quite a bit, and the HN02 feels ripe as a platform for iteration. But for now, this represents a nice refinement and evolution of the brand’s design language in what is ultimately a very wearable package.
For more, visit Havid Nagan.
