Fears has decided to add its first high complication by tackling one of the most complex of them all: the perpetual calendar. Charting new territory seems like just the right way to celebrate the brand’s 10th anniversary since its renaissance in 2016. The introduction of a QP to the flagship Brunswick line isn’t the only headline. The collection gets a new case architecture with wide polished bevels making it the thinnest Brunswick watch in the line at 9.4mm.
The Brunswick has been a defining collection for Fears since its introduction in 2017, marking the first mechanical line of the modern era. Yet, the collection is also an homage to the brand’s past with a vintage-inspired cushion shape case, onion crown, and signature sector dial. The design mixes these aesthetics with distinct typography and numerals derived from a piece from the brand’s archives. It only feels fitting that this collection would serve as the foundation for Fears’ first high complication in 180 years.
Even with the addition of day, date, month, year, and leap year indications that make up a perpetual calendar, Fears has managed to keep the Brunswick QP compact at just 39mm. When it comes to high complications, the composition of the movement is usually the main limiting factor when it comes to sizing. Here, we can thank the Dubois Depraz perpetual calendar module, atop a hand-finished Sellita SW300 as its base movement.
This caliber has been modified specifically for this watch, giving it its own reference 55113, exclusive to Fears. Function and form carry equal weight, with finishing that upholds watchmaking traditions. The base movement is hand decorated with frosted bridges and plates, including hand anglage applied to the bridge’s edges with a dark rhodium finish. In addition, the caliber is wound automatically by a custom solid 18-karat gold rotor featuring the Fears ‘Bristol Flower’ motif. Further attention to detail in the design also contributes to the slim profile with the corrector pushers neatly integrated into the brushed case band for setting (and re-setting) the calendar that have been specially engineered to sit within the center of the case.
As a cherry on top, the model also incorporates Fears’ first-ever moonphase indication at 6 o’clock. The romantic complication features a clean, black lacquer disc, inset with two silver moons hand finished with charbonage (representative of the moon’s surface). The model is complete with a hand made and sewn walnut brown strap in ostrich with a Fears Blue Alcantara lining. Contrasting nicely with the model’s silver mink dial, the strap brings out the warmth of the black gold coated hands and indices. The watch is presented in a new bespoke box, also in Fears Blue, with a representation of the Union Jack flag picked out in subtle marquetry on the box’s lid. Each watch is also supplied with a SwissKubik watch winder, once again in Fears Blue.
The new Brunswick 39 Perpetual Calendar is a non-limited edition joining the brand’s permanent catalog along with the Fears Garrick in a new Eminence Collection of luxury Fears timepieces featuring hand-finished movements and haute horology construction and detailing. If you’re in the market for something particularly special, bespoke versions of the model can be made by consultation of the Fears Custom Division exclusively in platinum. The QP is priced at $28,500 and makes its grand entrance today with shipping expected to begin in mid-September. For more information, head over directly to Fears.
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