Doxa is one of those watch brands where the lore is kind of hard to escape. Every release is the subject of intense enthusiast discussion as the watches are contextualized through a complex history. There’s real mystique to the brand, which I think largely stems from the fact that Doxa’s dive watches were always true enthusiast products, made for actual divers as tools of their trade. This sets them apart from Rolex, Omega, and many other Swiss luxury houses, not because they didn’t also make tools for real divers (they certainly did), but because they also focused their attention on more mainstream pursuits. Doxa, at least in the public imagination, 50+ years on, did not. They’re seen as a brand for purists, and still appreciated by them to a great extent, even if they sometimes do something that’s a little on trend.
There’s perhaps no watch in their catalog with more lore attached to it than the Sub 200 T.Graph, a chronograph version of the Doxa’s iconic Sub 200 diver. This watch was briefly released in a very limited way all the way back in 2019, and, ever since, collectors and fans of the brand have been clamoring for a non-limited edition. This week, Doxa has given the people what they want, with the introduction of the Sub 200 T.Graph II.
The new Sub 200 T.Graph II is, at least on the surface, exactly what you’d expect a modern, permanent version of the T.Graph to be. It is sized down just slightly from the 2019 limited edition, with a 42mm case in stainless steel measuring 14.6mm thick (the limited edition was 43mm in diameter and 15.15mm thick). The case has 200 meters of water resistance and is fitted with a screw down crown.
This is certainly a more forgiving size for a case that already has a shape that makes it fairly versatile, even with the on-paper dimensions screaming “big watch.” The cushion case design of most Doxas, along with a short lug to lug and a smaller dial opening, tends to make these watches feel a little smaller than you’d expect. They also present like nothing else visually, and can be a bit of an acquired taste. Again, that’s all part of the lore.
For this launch of the Sub 200 T.Graph II, Doxa has introduced the watch in four colors with the traditional Doxa naming conventions: Professional (orange), Searambler (silver), Sharkhunter (black), and Caribbean (navy blue). Doxa notes that the Caribbean colorway has never been offered on a T.Graph before. The previous limited edition was offered in Professional only, and of course silver and black are essential neutral colors that cast a wide net of interest. It’s hard to fault Doxa for the dials chosen for this first batch of T.Graphs, but of course speculation will begin almost immediately about future colorways, and more esoteric options like carbon cases and the like that the brand has leaned into in recent years.
Powering the Sub 200 T.Graph II is a Sellita SW510 automatic chronograph caliber, with about 56 hours of power reserve on a full wind. The watch is available on Doxa’s beads of rice bracelet or a rubber strap.
The retail price for the Sub 200 T.Graph II on a strap is $4,250, while the bracelet version retails for $4,290. More information can be found at the Doxa website.
