Introducing: A New Generation Of The Omega Speedmaster 38 MM

What We Know

Say goodbye to oval subdials—Omega just announced a complete refresh of the brand’s midsize Speedmaster 38mm collection. In total, there are seven new models replacing the outgoing lineup.

If the previous generation of the Speedmaster 38mm took a more luxe, fashion-forward approach, the new design language returns to form with more Moonwatch-adjacent styling. Not only are the oval subdials gone, but the bezel also takes a more traditional turn with a classic wide insert. 

The Moonwatch reference is even more pointed with the inclusion of the dot-over-ninety numbering on the insert’s tachymeter, as well as an updated bracelet that feels like a shrunken-down version of the current five-link Moonwatch bracelet, down to the clasp with Omega’s “comfort release” micro-adjust system that offers two positions and 2.3mm of adjustment. Across the board, the new refresh also sees a cleaned-up dial with less printed text and an applied Omega logo at 12 o’clock.

Across the seven new variations, three are set in steel—a matte black Moonwatch-like dial with a black aluminum insert (and no date window at six o’clock), a glossy lacquered white dial with blue ceramic bezel insert (not too far off from the Milano Cortina edition we saw released last October), and a silver dial with a grey aluminum bezel insert and PVD-coated Sedna Gold hands and indices. Two come with splashes of solid gold accents in the bezel, pushers, crown, and small links on the bracelet. 

There’s one with an ivory dial, contrasting brown subdials, and a brown aluminum bezel insert, and the other features a silver opaline dial with a green aluminum bezel insert and gold accents in Moonshine Gold. Hands and indices are PVD-coated in Omega’s respective gold alloys. Last but not least are two variants with diamond-set bezels, in either ice blue or mother-of-pearl dials.

If you, like many, were hoping that this new update to the Speedmaster 38mm line would mark a change in proportions, sadly, this is not the case. With the same automatic Caliber 3330 used in the outgoing generation here for these models, and the no-date Caliber 3332 for the black dial model, this means that despite the compact 38mm case size and 44.96mm lug-to-lug measurement, the Speedmaster 38mm remains proportionally thick at 14.75mm.

The line features many different price points, with the steel black dial model priced at $6,500, the silver dial at $6,700, the white dial/blue ceramic insert at $7,100, the bi-metal models at $11,700, the ice-blue diamond-set model at $12,300, and the mother-of-pearl diamond-set model at $13,100.

What We Think

This is a very curious update to the Speedmaster 38mm collection, which I had always assumed would receive an update soon, but with reworked proportions to improve the case-diameter-to-case-height ratio. It’s certainly the primary feedback we seem to see coming from every corner of the internet, begging the brand to thin down the case of this series. But while that wish wasn’t answered, I think the aesthetic shift to a more Moonwatch-faithful look is a significant improvement, especially with the no-date, black-dialed variant that immediately evokes the brand’s older Speedmaster Reduced model, which seemed to hold a special place in the hearts of Speedy collectors. While the oval subdials of the now-discontinued Speedmaster 38mm models were an attempt to visually balance the outward-skewing subdials of the chronograph, I think embracing the subdial positioning as part of the charm of using this caliber in this case was the right call for this update.

What I hope to see in the future is a new caliber introduced for the Speedmaster 38mm, which I think is really what is holding back the case dimensions. But in the meantime, I certainly prefer the new visual changes in this new generation over the older ones, and we’ll see how actual buyers react.

The Basics

Brand: Omega
Model: Speedmaster 38mm
Reference Number: 324.30.38.50.01.002 (black dial); 324.30.38.50.04.001 (lacquered white dial); 324.30.38.50.02.003 (silver dial); 324.20.38.50.02.001 (Moonshine Gold); 324.20.38.50.02.002 (Sedna Gold); 324.15.38.50.03.001 (ice blue dial); 324.15.38.50.05.001 (mother-of-pearl dial)

Diameter: 38mm
Thickness: 14.75mm
Case Material: Stainless steel (with variants featuring 18k gold accents or diamond-set bezel)
Dial Color: Various
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Strap/Bracelet: 5-link Moonwatch-style bracelet with two-position micro-adjust

The Movement

Caliber: 3330 or 3332 (black dial)
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph
Power Reserve: 52 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 VpH
Chronometer Certified: No

Pricing & Availability

Price: Starting at $6,500 in steel, $11,700 in bi-metal, and (starting at) $12,300 for models with a diamond-set bezel.
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No

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