What We Know
Today, Grand Seiko introduces nine new variants to the three-hander, time-and-date models in its Evolution 9 collection. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by that already, don’t worry. Yes, there’s quite a bit of nuance to unpack here among all these references, but not all nine are really new watches, per se. Many of them are existing models, just slightly modified.
If you’ve read the title of this article, you’ll already know that the biggest updates to these Evolution 9 models are things that collectors have long clamored for— tapered bracelets and clasps with tool-free microadjustment. Yes, for those who weren’t able to achieve a perfect fit with previous Evolution 9 models, they will be able to now and can adjust accordingly, especially in hotter months with more wrist swelling. The clasp design comes from the original Evolution UFA SLGB003 model introduced last year, but now has spread to the rest of the collection, in both steel and titanium versions, and both 37mm and 40mm.
Gone are the 5-day Spring Drive 9RA2 calibers used in the collection, replaced entirely with the U.F.A caliber 9RB2. This means that for those who found the 37mm U.F.A models too small, the more classic 40mm versions now get the ultra-accurate caliber that features an annual rated accuracy of +/- 20 seconds (timing per month is quoted at +/- 3 seconds). This is a big deal, and I think it suggests that Grand Seiko could be making a move to replace all of its Spring Drive calibers down the line with its higher-accuracy version. There are five models in this update with the new U.F.A caliber. The previous Spring Drive-powered White Birch dial gets an update with a slightly more pronounced pattern and texture with SLGB009, while the SLGB011 Atera Blue dial is a little darker, with a more pronounced gradient towards the edges of the dial. Interestingly, the Atera Blue is now in Ever-Brilliant Steel, rather than the high-intensity titanium of the outgoing model.
The update to Ever-Brilliant Steel is now marked on the caseback.
The updated Atera Blue variant, now in steel rather than titanium. Photo by TanTan Wang
The ever-popular Lake Suwa dial gets an update, with an ever-so-slightly lighter shade of dark blue in both 40mm (SLGB013) and 37mm (SLGB015) sizes. A new black version of the Lake Suwa pattern, offered in 40mm of high-intensity titanium, is now introduced in reference SLGB007.
Those were the Spring Drive updates to the collection, but Grand Seiko certainly hasn’t forgotten about its Dual Impulse Escaepement-powered Caliber 9SA5, either. The dials of the SLGH029 Black Birch, SLGH031 White Birch, and SLGH033 Green Birch models remain unchanged from their predecessors, though the White Birch and Green Birch versions are now in Ever-Brilliant Steel. The brand new reference here is the non-limited SLGH035 Genbi Valley, which takes the distinctive, scaled pattern found in the previous Genbi Valley-themed limited edition and combines it with a very light blue color. Of course, all four of these models also come with the new, more tapered bracelet and micro-adjust clasp.
The three Birch colors, this time with the more refined bracelet.
The updated White Birch dial on the Spring Drive version is a bit more dramatic in texture than before.
The new SLGH035 Genbi Valley.
Though these nine updates are announced now, the Spring Drive models will be available starting in September, while the mechanical models will be available in October. Pricing for both the Spring Drive U.F.A and mechanical models in steel is $10,200, while the versions in titanium are priced at $11,400.
What We Think
That was a lot of small changes across the line to digest, so I hope what you read above was clear enough of a breakdown to make sense. To the average consumer, some of the updates aren’t the most consequential—Grand Seiko’s Ever-Brilliant Steel is certainly nice to have, but I think it would be hard to imagine someone pulling the trigger on a watch solely due to a proprietary steel alloy. But what I can imagine is that the new wearing experience across the board of a more tapered bracelet, as well as an adjustable clasp, might just be the reason why someone who’s been holding off on the Evolution 9 series would take the plunge.
The two sizes of the new Lake Suwa UFA models.
I had a chance to try these new models on in person, so stay tuned for some hands-down pieces in the future, especially on some of my favorite new dials like the Genbi Valley and the updated Atera Blue. But in the meantime, I can say that the tapering certainly feels nice, especially as the bracelets feel quite thick and robust even with the more narrow proportions. More to come.
The Basics
Brand: Grand Seiko
Collection: Evolution 9
Reference Number: SLGB007, SLGB009, SLGB011, SLGB013, SLGB015 (Spring Drive U.F.A); SLGH029, SLGH031, SLGH033, SLGH035 (Mechanical Caliber 9SA5)
Diameter: 37mm (SLGB015); 40mm (Others)
Thickness: 11.4mm (37mm); 11.7mm (40mm)
Case Material: Ever-Brilliant Steel or High-Intensity Titanium
Dial Color: Various
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Yes
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Updated more tapered bracelets with micro-adjustment clasp
The Movement
Caliber: 9SA5 (mechanical); 9RB2 (Spring Drive U.F.A)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Power Reserve: 80 hours (mechanical); 72 hours (U.F.A)
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 36,000 VpH (mechanical)
Jewels: 47 (mechanical); 34 (U.F.A)
Pricing & Availability
Price: $10,200 for Ever-Brilliant Steel models; $11,400 for High-Intensity Titanium models
Availability: September for Spring Drive, October for mechanical models
Limited Edition: No.
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