Hublot is a brand that has long endured scrutiny for its bold and out-of-the-box approach to watchmaking, and frankly, I’ve never quite understood why the industry and the collector sphere has relentlessly put the brand under fire. In many other instances, brands have been revered for being a disrupter, so why not Hublot?
The inaugural design that launched the brand back in 1980 was the first to combine a precious metal case with a rubber strap, laying the foundation for what the brand now calls the “Art of Fusion.” However, you have to understand that at the time, this was both risky and revelatory – rubber straps weren’t nearly as prevalent as they are today, and pairing one with a precious metal as opposed to stainless steel was unheard of.
Now, we see rubber straps in most brands’ repertoires often combined with a precious metal. So, in fact, Hublot set the standard for something that was once audacious but now commonplace and considered totally “normal” (whatever normal really means) – maybe we should give Hublot a little more credit and not be so quick to judge.
Today, we are fully celebrating that model that started it all – at the time, called the Classic Original and now known as the Classic Fusion with the aptly named Tributo. Beyond the innovative combination of materials, the original composition established some specific design codes, including the porthole shaped case with 12 prominent screws securing the bezel framing a plain and totally minimalist dial. While undoubtedly modern, there is still something classic about its clean lines, timeless and versatile color palette, and surprising simplicity. The new Classic Fusion Tributo reprises many of these same elements.
First and foremost, we have the juxtaposition of the precious metal case in both yellow and white gold with the black rubber strap. For the contemporary interpretation, the case is slightly upsized from the original 36mm to 38mm. I love the restraint Hublot took with this sizing upgrade. If you look at the rest of the brand’s catalog, it’s filled with watches offering commanding, oversized builds. Here, Hublot has really stayed true to the original proportions while placing equal attention to adapting them to the styles of today.
Other important details remain true. The twelve slightly domed bezel screws keep their original function. The black dial is stripped of indices, and time is indicated simply by the angle of the hour and minute hands. There are only three carefully chosen elements on the dial. First, you’ll find a color-matched black date window tucked at the traditional 3 o’clock position exactly as intended in the original design language. Then, there’s the Hublot “H” and full brand name at 12 o’clock. Lastly, you’ll notice the MDM signature opposite at 6 o’clock, providing a direct link to Hublot’s founder Carlo Crocco and the original MDM Geneve signature seen on the very first Hublot. It also carries double meaning, celebrating a cause close to Mr. Crocco: the Main Dans la Main Foundation, which supports humanitarian and educational projects aimed at improving the lives of vulnerable children and communities in need. As a tribute to the founder’s values, CHF 100,000 will be donated to the organization alongside the launch.
As the final cherry on top, the strap even maintains the integrity of the original with the deliberate omission of the One Click system to preserve the watch’s DNA. However, internally, everything changes. What was originally a quartz watch in 1980 now houses an automatic Manufacture movement. A self-winding architecture delivers approximately 60-hour power reserve thanks to an optimization of the gear train. Built around an open-worked oscillating weight shaped as the iconic Hublot “H” and visible through the sapphire caseback, it reflects Hublot’s technical evolution and watchmaking prowess of today.
The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo duo makes their grand entrance today, each with a price tag of $30,100. For more information, head over directly to Hublot.
