What We Know
Have you played “hide a World War I battleship?” I mean, who hasn’t? It’s basically the number two teenage pastime in the United States Midwest and Great Plains, with all those giant bodies of water in places like Nebraska, South Dakota, and the like. No? Okay, well, hiding ships was a life-or-death proposition back in World War I and World War II, and for a brief period from around 1917 to 1918, the answer was not to try to hide them at all. That’s where Toledano & Chan got the idea for the new b/1 “Dazzle:” obfuscate, not obliterate.
If the concept of “dazzle camo” sounds familiar, it’s because Bulgari tried its own version of this disruptive pattern material (DPM, as it’s known in the industry) just a few months ago. We even mentioned this watch coming from Toledano & Chan, which was revealed when it was nominated for a GPHG award. As a refresher, I’m going to paraphrase what I said before.
British zoologist John Graham Kerr proposed (to Winston Churchill in 1914) a DPM designed to change the perceived outline, size, distance, and direction of ships at sea based on the same concept that zebras use to hide their distance and numbers from predators. The idea was convincing enough that a large number of ships were painted, and while some German U-Boat captains did say that the pattern was effective, it’s still unclear how true that was. Regardless, radar basically made the whole idea obsolete, and now it’s largely an oddity outside the automobile road-testing world.
And yet, it’s just really incredibly cool stuff. Here, it’s done in grade 5 titanium, with alternating and irregular compositions of frosted and satin-brushed finishes striping across the case and dial. That pattern is done with CNC engraving, which is then diamond-frosted and brushed. The case retains the original b/1 case language, with a destro crown and faceted crystal and overall case design inspired by the Breuer building in New York (now home to Sotheby’s but previously belonging to the Met and before that the Whitney). Instead of distinct patterns, the lines from the case extend to the dial. Measurements are tough because of the unique shape, but it’s about 33.5mm wide and 9.10–10.40mm thick, depending on where you measure.
Inside is a Sellita SW100 movement, with specs listed below. But if the normal dial isn’t dazzling enough, there’s also a “Double Dazzle” with 350 natural pavé-set diamonds. The standard version is limited to 188 pieces at $7700, while the diamond version is made in only 12 pieces for $9700. The watches are available on the brand website starting October 24, or from Antoine de Macedo in Paris, Collective Horology in California, The Turkish Watch Guy in Istanbul, Bernardini in Milan, or Exquisite Timepieces in Florida.
What We Think
As someone with a few pieces of more traditional camouflage in my closet, picked up from thrift stores or surplus suppliers, the more obscure camo has always been super interesting to me (shout-out once again to Oman’s really intense red desert camo). I’ve often been tempted to buy Hardy Blechman’s book “DPM: Disruptive Pattern Material – An Encyclopedia of Camouflage” even though the price is more than a lot of nice watches now. So basically, I have strong thoughts about camo-themed watches. And not for nothing, but I think this is the best one I’ve seen. The execution is just… perfect.
Camouflage as a fashion tool is difficult to get right. I would largely date it back to the post-Vietnam era, when soldiers (many of them disaffected by their experience) wore their M-1965 Field Jacket and Tropical Combat Jacket (a.k.a. “Jungle Jacket”) as part of their everyday wardrobe. Now, either jacket, especially the Jungle Jacket, is basically a staple of any menswear forum reader’s wardrobe. But leaning too far into the militaria (or wearing militaria from too recent a timeframe) can come off as cosplay. That’s why the more obscure, less on-the-nose camo is better. Dazzle camouflage is anything but practical, nor will anyone wear this watch to trick people into wondering how far away their wrist is or which direction it’s going. But it’s a statement, and a really unique one. In fact, I’ve been beating myself up about whether I’d wear it myself often enough to get one. Call it self-(camo)flagellation.
The Basics
Brand: Toledano & Chan
Model: b/1 “Dazzle” and “Double Dazzle”
Diameter: 33.5mm width
Thickness: 9.10–10.40mm (angled case)
Case Material: Grade 5 Titanium
Dial Color: Titanium (with or without diamonds)
Indexes: None
Lume: None
Water Resistance: 50m
Strap/Bracelet: Integrated titanium bracelet
The Movement
Caliber: Sellita SW100
Functions: Hours and minutes
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Winding: Automatic
Pricing & Availability
Price: $7,700 (standard edition); $9,700 (double dazzle)
Availability: October 24
Limited Edition: Yes, 188 pieces in standard, 12 pieces in double dazzle
For more, click here.
