The emergence of Naoya Hida as a major player in the independent space has been one of the more exciting developments in watches over the last few years. Whether Hida’s watches are to your taste or not (or your budget) there’s no denying that the brand presents a crystal clear point of view and takes no shortcuts to execute on it. In an environment with, frankly, a lot of half baked ideas, there’s something satisfying about a brand that knows exactly what it is. So it’s incredibly interesting that right on the heels of their recent 2026 launches, the brand has announced a new collaboration with Zenith on their G.F.J. platform.
This is honestly one of those world-colliding moments for me and I’m pretty excited about not only the watch but what this might signal for both Zenith and Naoya Hida moving forward. The G.F.J. feels like the right line for a brand like Naoya Hida to work within – it’s already cited as a watch that trades a little on the current trend toward artisanal dials (in exotic stones, specifically) that have become favorites among many high end indies. And there’s an undeniable synergy between the classic mid century design codes of the G.F.J. case and Naoya Hida’s aesthetic sensibility.
The G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co. is the first in what Zenith is referring to as their new “Double Signed” program, which will, according to the brand, invite selected partners to reinterpret iconic references. The naming convention is a spin on the old-school double signed watches sought by vintage collectors, which are most often associated with a brand or a specific retailer. Here, it appears that Zenith will be working with independent watchmakers who will have an opportunity to create something unique based on historic Zenith references.
For this inaugural piece on the Double Signed series, Naoya Hida has contributed a dial very much reminiscent of that found on the brand’s NH Type 2A. Like most of their dials, it’s crafted from solid silver with hand engraved markers throughout. In addition, the Zenith and Naoya Hida wordmarks have been hand engraved as well. In a nod to Zenith’s history, the engravings have been filled with blue lacquer, a signature color for the brand, and a departure from Hida’s typical black infill.
The 39mm case is platinum, and to my eye makes for a very nice complement to the Naoya Hida look. While the Naoya Hida cases are very nicely made, the brand is really a showcase for their dial work, so it’s arguable that this G.F.J. is an objectively more complex and interesting showcase for that work.
The watch runs on the Caliber 135, a manually wound movement that is a modern remaking of the historic Zenith caliber famous for winning observatory trials in the 1950s. The movement is elaborately decorated with traditional Geneva stripes and hand anglage.
The G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co. is a limited edition of ten pieces. The retail price is set at $75,000. Zenith x Naoya Hida
