What We Know
The Overseas Ultra-Thin is back! After the discontinuation of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin ref. 2000V, introduced back in 2016, the Overseas collection has generally stayed within a few extremes of diameter options, either around 41mm or around 34mm. Ultra-thin watchmaking in the lineup has been relegated to the Overseas Perpetual Calendars, and something felt sorely missing in the 2000V’s absence. But there’s a good reason why the 2000V doesn’t necessarily fit in the current catalog: the use of the non-in-house, though iconic, JLC-based Caliber 1120.
Thankfully, today’s launch introduces a brand new, fully in-house Caliber 2550, after seven years of development. It is an incredibly impressive movement, coming in at only 2.4mm in height, thanks to a micro-rotor, suspended double-barreled architecture, and a redesigned gear train that maximizes efficiency of the available space. The suspended double barrel also offers an impressive 80 hours of power reserve in a 30.6mm by 2.4mm caliber, and is connected in series despite one sitting parallel above the other and both pivoting on a single post. The single-level gear train is also something Vacheron is particularly proud of, with a five-wheel layout and two of the wheels mounted on ball bearings.
And while the engineering is impressive, the Geneva Seal craftsmanship is just as much, with hand finishing in the form of dramatic Geneva striping, anglage, complex alternating finishes on the microrotor, and more. This new caliber is set in the new Ultra-Thin 2500V and Vacheron says that the specific alloy of PT950 here uses 5% copper and gallium, with a thermal hardening treatment that translates to better wearability and scratch resistance. This Overseas comes in a diameter of 39.5mm and an impressive height of only 7.35mm, and is presented with a sunray-brushed salmon dial. As with other Overseas models, it comes with two straps in addition to the platinum bracelet.
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V is boutique-exclusive, limited to 255 individually numbered pieces, and is priced at $120,000.
What We Think
This is a gorgeous, time-only take on the Overseas, if not just purely for the proportions of the case alone. While less of an issue with the complications like the Dual Time and Perpetual Calendar in the Overseas, I always feel that, as someone with a smaller wrist, the three-hander 41mm Overseas wears significantly larger than its stated size, and so I know that this would absolutely fit like a dream.
Salmon dials aren’t always the easiest to get right—it’s a hard color to work with across a wide range of skin tones. And while I’ll save my final judgment for when I see this in person this week, I think that this shade looks promising in my book, thanks to a brighter, more copper hue. The brightness of the dial also works perfectly with the brightness that comes with a full platinum watch, and I’ll be damned if the combination of extremely heavy metal paired with a svelte silhouette feels magical on the wrist. Though I suspect more people will be talking about the much-anticipated Overseas Dual Time models, this one feels like an absolute killer release from the brand (albeit extremely expensive), and I hope to see some non-limited versions soon.
The Basics
Brand: Vacheron Constantin
Model: Overseas Ultra-Thin
Reference Number: 2500V / 210P–H028
Diameter: 39.5mm
Thickness: 7.35mm
Case Material: Platinum
Dial Color: Salmon-lacquered
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Yes, Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 50 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Platinum bracelet with comfort adjustment system, additional rubber and alligator leather straps
The Movement
Caliber: 2550
Functions: Hours, minutes
Diameter: 30.6mm
Thickness: 2.4mm
Power Reserve: 80 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 VpH (3 Hz)
Jewels: 25
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: Poinçon de Genève
Pricing & Availability
Price: $120,000
Availability: Vacheron Boutiques only
Limited Edition: Yes, 255 individually numbered pieces
For more, click here.
