There were so many new releases, limited editions, and collaborations launched at Windup New York, we’re honestly still coming up for air and cataloging everything. With around 170 brands, it was a challenge to see everything (full disclosure, not even staff sees everything). And while I definitely spent some time at the Formex booth, most of my attention was on the Aria, their higher end integrated bracelet watch that debuted earlier this year and hasn’t escaped my mind since. Their new release at the show somehow slipped under the radar (at least mine) in all of the commotion. But the new Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Red Shift (the name is admittedly a mouthful) deserves some attention.
The new Essence is built on the brand’s Ceramica platform, which prior to the release of the Aria was Formex’s most ambitious and compelling release. It’s a full ceramic version of their Essence sports watch with a proprietary case suspension system. The 41mm case, bracelet, and clasp are constructed entirely from black zirconium oxide ceramic. This is a material that is being used more frequently by luxury watchmakers, and it’s often priced at a premium and positioned as an exotic alternative to metal. It does have a lot of benefits, chief among them being incredible scratch resistance and a light weight compared to steel. The Ceramica is particularly appealing because, like all Formex watches, it’s priced well below any comparable piece from a major Swiss brand. This variant retails for $4,450 – a quick look at full ceramic sports watches from the likes of Zenith and others reveals that nothing really comes close, particularly when you factor in the full ceramic bracelet.
This edition of the Essence also builds on the ongoing “Dark Matter” meteorite dial series. A slab of Muonionalusta meteorite used for the dial has been given a black-gold galvanic treatment, resulting in a tone that shifts from anthracite to a near total black. Red details on the dial have been added as an accent, with Formex highlighting that this points to a subtle motorsport influence. I’m not sure if that influence is entirely legible here to be honest (it’s just a color choice), but I have the point of view that if a dial looks cool, the intended influence is kind of irrelevant.
The watch is powered by the Sellita SW200-2 Power+ automatic movement and is COSC certified. Formex is among the first batch of brands to make use of these new Sellita movements which have additional power reserve over a standard SW200, as well as improvements to the regulating mechanism and increased shock protection.
The Dark Matter Redshift is not a limited edition, but is limited in production to 100 pieces annually. For the first year of production, each piece is individually numbered. More information can be found on the Formex website here.
