What We Know
Just in time for the hot and humid summer ahead, Doxa has just unveiled a new generation of its distinctive, cushion-cased dive-watch-slash-chronograph with the new Sub 200 T.Graph II. The best part? It’s no longer a limited edition, but rather a permanent offering for the brand. Oh, and thankfully, it’s priced less than that previous 300-piece LE.
At a quick glance, nothing seems to have changed on Doxa’s tribute to its 1969 design, and you’d be sort of correct. The dial layout, with two subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock, along with an oversized arrowhead chronograph seconds hand, remains the same in this new generation. But the main changes here are sure to make almost everyone happy: a slight reduction in diameter and case thickness. While the previous Sub 200 T.Graph measured at 43mm in diameter with a thickness of 15.15mm, the steel case on the Sub 200 T.Graph II measures 42mm in diameter and 14.6mm in thickness.
Rather than the new old stock Valjoux 7734 chronograph caliber that the limited edition housed, this new T.Graph II uses a contemporary automatic Sellita SW510 chronograph caliber, with a slightly higher 56-hour power reserve and a much higher beat rate of 28,800 VpH.
New to the Sub 200 T.Graph II is also another dial color, Caribbean (Doxa’s name for blue), which is a familiar livery within the brand’s other models but never before offered on a T.Graph. The dark, slightly dusty navy dial joins the three other colorways found in the original design: Professional Orange, Searambler Sunburst Silver, and Sharkhunter Black. While all four are available on the beads-of-rice bracelet, a version on a rubber strap is also available in all four colors, with the orange and blue dials coming with matching colored straps (black and silver dials come with a black rubber strap).
The Sub 200 T.Graph II is available now, and priced at $4,290 for the steel bracelet and $4,250 on the rubber strap.
What We Think
I got a chance to see the new Sub 200 T.Graph II a few months ago in Geneva, and the newer, more compact proportions feel great on the wrist. The previous sizing of the Sub 200 T.Graph was never an issue for me, as Doxa cushion cases consistently wear more comfortably than their dimensions suggest, thanks to a short lug-to-lug. But these new dimensions are noticeable nonetheless, and very much appreciated for a large variety of wrists. That aside, the new dial color is familiar but a necessary addition to the collection.
Most importantly, this follow-up to the 2019 limited edition, which was equipped with vintage chronograph calibers, makes a lot of sense to offer to a devoted fanbase, with a truly modern version of the hybrid dive watch and chronograph now available to pick up. Of course, resident Doxa connoisseur James Stacey will have more to come on the T.Graph II, so stay tuned for more.
The Basics
Brand: Doxa
Model: Sub 200 T-Graph II
Diameter: 42mm (44.5mm lug-to-lug)
Thickness: 14.6mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial Color: Professional Orange; Searambler Sunburst Silver; Sharkhunter Black; Caribbean Blue
Indexes: Printed
Lume: Yes, Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 200 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Beads-of-rice bracelet or rubber strap
The Movement
Caliber: Sellita SW510
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph
Power Reserve: 56 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 VpH
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: Doxa decoration on caliber
Pricing & Availability
Price: $4,290 (bracelet); $4,250 (strap)
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No
For more, click here.
