What We Know
I’ll come clean—I’ve been a bit more than mildly obsessed with the modern revival of Daniel Roth ever since I got to spend some time with the Daniel Roth Tourbillon in platinum last year. While that watch very much still reigns supreme for me in the lineup, Daniel Roth has just announced a new watch today that feels awfully close to unseating the Tourbillon’s title for me.
It’s the new variation of the Daniel Roth Extra Plat in rose gold, but this time, it’s with a black gilt dial. What’s important to note is that this is a true gilt dial, not the often misconstrued sense of the word that many modern watches like to use for accents and markings printed in a gold tone. As I’ve covered on Hodinkee in the past, a real gilt dial is made by taking a base dial blank, printing a protective lacquer mask on what are typically the positive markings on a dial, and then galvanically coating the entire dial in black. The masked portions of the dial are protected from the coating, and after the lacquer is removed, the base metal underneath serves as the dial text.
The dial of this Extra Plat starts as a dial blank of solid 5N rose gold, then is engine-turned by hand on a rose lathe to achieve the guillochage on the various sections of the dial in recognizably Daniel Roth style. Afterward, all the markings—Roman numerals, the Daniel Roth logo, dial number, etc.—are pad-printed with a pink varnish to protect them during the subsequent electroplating treatments. After the varnish is demasked, all the dial markings reveal the underlying layer of gold. Paired with a 5N rose gold case, in a very compact 38.6mm diameter and (as demonstrated by the name) very slender 7.7mm thickness, the final result is a gorgeous black-dialed dress watch with just that extra bit of detailing for the owner to appreciate.
The pink mask of the markings covers the base dial from the electroplating process.
Shown through the exhibition caseback is the La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton-produced Calibre DR002, an ultra-thin time-only caliber with a power reserve of 65 hours beating away at 28,800 VpH. The finishing, as with other examples using the caliber, remains well done and, despite the simpler architecture, still retains visual intrigue through the shapes of the bridges and its anglage.
The new Daniel Roth Extra Plat is priced at CHF 55,000.
What We Think
The other variations of the Extra Plat have never won me over in the same way that the Tourbillon models have, but I think this new iteration has just enough of a twist in the classic gilt dial that makes it work so well. Credit where credit is due, I think LVMH is doing an excellent job of managing the new era under Daniel Roth, and releases like this new Extra Plat continue the trend of offerings in the brand’s small catalog that represent extremely solid, well-executed high-end watchmaking. I’ll be seeing this watch in person very soon and will certainly be putting this new dial under a loupe to see what I’m sure will be an inevitably gorgeous layer of gold revealed beneath all the markings.
The Basics
Brand: Daniel Roth
Model: Extra Plat Gilt
Reference Number: DBBD04A1
Diameter: 38.6mm
Thickness: 7.7mm
Case Material: 5N Rose Gold
Dial Color: Gilt dial with black finish
Indexes: Gilt
Lume: No
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Calfskin leather strap
The Movement
Caliber: DR002
Functions: Hours, minutes
Diameter: 31mm x 28mm
Thickness: 3.1mm
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 28,800 VpH (4 Hz)
Jewels: 21
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: Manufacture caliber developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the supervision of Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini
Pricing & Availability
Price: CHF 55,000
Availability: September 2026
Limited Edition: No
For more, click here.
