What We Know
Last year, during Bulgari’s first appearance at Watches and Wonders, the maison turned heads when it announced the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, setting the record for the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch. It was but one of Bulgari’s extravagant executions of record-setting thin watchmaking, coming in at a whopping $678,000 for not very many millimeters (1.85) of ultra-light titanium.
The new Ultra Tourbillon in platinum (left), and last year’s Ultra Tourbillon in titanium (right).
This year, the brand follows up its GPHG-winning 20-piece entry from last year with a very small run of just 10 pieces in platinum. Juxtaposing a mind-boggling thin case with a hefty, dense metal will surely yield a completely different feel compared to the prior edition. Dimensions remain the same here, 40 millimeters in diameter and 1.85 millimeters in case height, though rather than a homogeneous bead-blasted finish, the platinum version gets a brushed bezel and contrasting brushed and polished facets across the rest of the case and bracelet.
It’s similar to the finishing differences across the Octo Finissimo collection, and if there’s anything to gather from those other watches, this version in platinum will be an absolute beacon on the wrist thanks to how well those facets catch light.
While the skeletonized dial architecture remains the same, the mainplate of ultra-thin caliber BVL 900 gets a galvanized blue treatment and blue PVD-coated dauphine hands to match. Though legibility is unlikely to be a priority in the design brief, the blued hands are sure to offer a much more legible experience than the polished silver hands of the previous titanium edition. An impressive—for the dimensions—power reserve of 42 hours is thanks to the wide barrel, which sits prominently at ten o’clock.
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is limited to 10 pieces and priced at $785,000.
What We Think
These ultra-thin, ultra-expensive releases occupy an interesting dichotomy in my mind. They are simultaneously incredibly important from a watchmaking and technical manufacturing perspective, while being incredibly inconsequential to the average customer. You could probably say that about many things in modern horology, of course, but this thought comes to mind purely because I’ve been lucky enough to see some absolutely crazy watches in my time, but have yet to see one of these bonkers Bulgari creations on a wrist. But that’s really a skill issue on my part, I think.
Jokes aside, the usage of platinum here is really interesting, and I think in person will lend a nice, reassuring balance to the watch that might have been missing with the titanium version. The engineering here speaks for itself, with functional skeletonization that also works well aesthetically, and the addition of blue is a bit more of a lighthearted, casual touch. With an even smaller run of 10 pieces compared to the original 20 pieces in titanium, this new Octo Finissimo Tourbillon is just an exclusive extravagance at its peak. Plus, now that Bulgari has released the classic Octo Finissimo in 37mm, everyone can be happy.
The Basics
Brand: Bulgari
Model: Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Reference Number: 104344
Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 1.85mm
Case Material: Platinum
Dial Color: Blue
Indexes: Skeletonized
Lume: No
Strap/Bracelet: Bracelet
The Movement
Caliber: BVL 900
Functions: Hours, minutes, tourbillon
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 4 Hz
Chronometer Certified: No
Pricing & Availability
Price: $785,000
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: 10 pieces
For more, click here.
