What We Know
Arken, the UK-based microbrand, has come back into the spotlight with the next public edition of its popular traveler dual-time watch, this time with a “Sage Grey” dial. It follows two preceding versions, one with a grey dial and one with a black dial, both of which were introduced back in 2023 and offered first as 200-piece preorders, a restock, and then an open-ended run early last year. While those versions are no longer available to order online, Arken founder Kenneth Lam told me that those editions can still be found at shows and via the brand’s slowly growing network of retailers.
And while the brand was busy assembling watches and fulfilling these orders all of last year, those who keep a close eye on the brand or have gone to any of Arken’s meetups will know that a few “Speakeasy” editions have since popped up, available only in person and at these specific shows and meetups, often coming with a Cerakoted case. But finally, this new Sage Grey Alterum marks another reference that will be available to the broader public.
First introduced earlier this year at British Watchmakers’ Day, this new dial takes the classic British racing green and desaturates it to an extreme, offering only a small hint of its verdant nature in what otherwise appears to be a quite monochromatic dial. A sand-colored dual-time hand adds a subtle touch of warmth to the otherwise cool dial, which complements the grey hue of the 38mm grade 2 titanium case.
On the dial, two small circular cutouts show the day/night for both local and secondary time zone indications, while the subdial at six o’clock shows the date. The markers are molded into three-dimensional ceramic-based SuperLumiNova hour indices, applied to the dial to add a nice depth that complements the relatively tall hand stack of the watch.
What remains noteworthy about the Alterum is that its unique dual-time functionality (not a conventional GMT watch in operation) is thanks to a module developed by Arken that sits atop the Miyota 9015 caliber inside. This module holds the dual-time hand in place when the time is adjusted backward (counter-clockwise). While the operation might seem confusing at first, it’s actually quite simple. As James Stacey pointed out back in 2023, you basically turn the hands counter-clockwise until you establish the difference between the two time zones, then turn the time forward so that the local time is correct.
The Arken Alterum Sage Grey will have two waves of ordering—one in stock with a limited quantity available starting May 23rd, and the following wave on May 30th, offered as an unlimited pre-order with delivery starting at the end of this year. In titanium with a quick-release sailcloth strap, the Alterum is priced at £630.00 (~$850)
What We Think
A new dial color isn’t earth-shattering news, but for fans of the microbrand, this is the first time in more than a year that this model is available online from the brand, and the execution is well done. While there are certainly inspirations drawn from Vacheron’s Overseas Dual Time—the reference to the Everest model was mentioned previously here on Hodinkee, and this year’s release of the titanium Cardinal Points series certainly brings both closer together in spirit. But in person, the Alterum is quite a different watch, not just in price point, but also in proportions, wearability, and overall feel.
By dimensions alone, the Alterum is a very compact watch – it’s a 38mm diameter with a lug-to-lug measurement of 46mm. But the lug design, with its integration of a quick-change mechanism, adds a slight angled flare to the strap, meaning that the actual lug-to-lug experience is a bit wider as the strap isn’t able to downturn immediately.
The Alterum is a design that’s quite dear to me, as I’ve really enjoyed owning and wearing the green-Cerakoted Speakeasy edition from last year. I always find it extremely fun whenever I find something that goes into the center of the Venn diagram containing James Stacey’s and my tastes (some of the things are really surprising), and this watch is something we have enthusiastically shared a love for since its inception.
And look, I’m predictable. An Alterum with a green dial is basically exactly what I want, so you bet yourself I will be picking one of these up. It is, in my humble opinion, one of the most interesting travel watches from a microbrand, and you’re getting a lot for your money with a watch well under a thousand dollars.
The Basics
Brand: Arken
Model: Alterum
Diameter: 38mm, 46mm lug-to-lug
Thickness: 13mm
Case Material: Grade 2 titanium
Dial Color: Sage grey
Indexes: Applied ceramic-moulded lume
Lume: Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 200 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Tapered nylon strap with quick-release
The Movement
Caliber: ARK-9015DT v2 (a modified Miyota 9015 with proprietary module)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, second time zone, day/night indicators
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 VpH (4 Hz)
Jewels: 24
Additional Details: Separate screw-down pusher for the date
Pricing & Availability
Price: £630
Availability: First wave on May 23 at 16:00 BST, limited in-stock quantity. Second wave on May 30th with unlimited pre-order window.
Limited Edition: No
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