Universal Genève means a lot to us at Hodinkee. It’s been one of my favorite brands since the early days of our publication—one that’s been with me through various moments in my career, through my growth in knowledge and passion for vintage watches, and a brand I’ve watched with anticipation, hoping it would come back. And today, we are sharing a conversation between myself and Georges Kern, former Breitling CEO and recently appointed CEO of House of Brands, which includes Breitling, Universal Genève, and Gallet, to chat over the recent results of a long-term project to bring Universal Genève back to the forefront.
I don’t think there’s been a more hotly anticipated brand relaunch than that of Universal Genève. The announcement that Breitling (now House of Brands) had secured the rights to the dormant brand sent shockwaves through the industry. We—both in the industry at large and at Hodinkee—had high hopes for the relaunch, but the proof would come with the first releases. Let me tell you, I don’t think anyone thought Universal Genève would go this far to knock it out of the park.
Just before Watches and Wonders 2026, Universal Genève essentially stole the show before it began by launching a few dozen of its most iconic watches in both heritage-styled and reimagined forms. The Gerald Genta-designed Polerouter? Returned, not just in one size but two, and in multiple materials, dials, bracelets, and more. Oh, and a brand-new microrotor (well, three-quarter rotor) movement honoring one of the watch’s hidden features that made it so great. The motorsport legend Compax “Nina Rindt” chronograph? That was back too, yet again with a new movement (also a three-quarter rotor), but ranging from a traditional recreation to a reimagined variety of precious metal pieces. This was all done from the ground up by a brand that essentially didn’t exist just a few short years ago.
But the relaunch plan didn’t stop at two of vintage UG’s most notable models. The somewhat forgotten Dioramic, a watch largely kept alive through passionate vintage collectors and not copied on the market today, makes its return alongside the Disco Volante (as oversized chronographs and the more feminine Disco Mini models). Some of this was expected, but a lot was surprising.
Why go so big with the initial launch? Kern tells us that it gave them a chance to emphasize the full breadth of Universal Genève’s potential (and what it will be in the future). A big part of this “Le Couturier de la Montre,” Universal’s historical motto, emphasizes the unique and purposeful couture approach that sets the tone for what the brand was and will be in the future.
At the top of the brand’s commercial pyramid is the “couture” segment. Highly decorated, artful, leaning on gemsetting, unique interpretations of the heritage, materials, and more—the brand took the “Couturier” label seriously. Next comes the capsule collection, featuring stone dials that elevate the icons to new heights and take the brand upmarket, going toe-to-toe with some recognizable big names in watchmaking. And at the other end of the brand’s restored range—but no worse for it—is the Prêt-à-Porter collection. That’s all the things that vintage lovers like me want, plus some of them with twists that reach new audiences.
If all this gets you excited about the future of Universal Genève, you’re not alone, and I highly recommend you click play and get an inside look at what it takes to fully relaunch a cult classic brand in 2026.
