Breguet has long been a brand with a deep reverence to its history spanning over 250 years. In this tradition, Breguet’s designs have remained consistent and timeless. The brand’s Marine collection is a core part of this lineage, with roots that trace back to 1815 when Abraham-Louis Breguet was appointed watchmaker to the French Royal Navy by King Louis XVIII. At the time, these marine chronometers were crucial scientific instruments, but as years passed and needs changed, the collection later evolved throughout the 20th and 21st centuries.
On the coattails of Breguet’s 250th anniversary last year, we’re really seeing the brand’s offerings come into the modern era with new design updates. The latest comes to the Marine collection, which the brand has revamped with a new aesthetic that aligns with its latest stylistic codes.
Two references anchor the contemporary Marine line: the 5517, a classic time and date version, and the 5527, a chronograph. For the first time, both the Marine 5517 and 5527 will feature Breguet numerals and the “Quai de l’Horloge” guilloche pattern that was unveiled to mark the 250th anniversary. This motif takes its name from the address on the Ile de la Cite where Abraham-Louis Breguet established his workshop and where his early marine chronometers were produced. Its design draws inspiration from two sources: first, the contours of the Ile de la Cite and Ile Saint-Louis as well as the repetitive movement of ocean waves.
Several other details are also reminiscent of the marine world. Here, the central chronograph hand features the “B” of the “Bravo” maritime flag, the crown also evokes the waves, and the gold oscillating weight visible on the back is inspired by a rudder.
Legibility continues to be another throughline within the Marine family. For the already minimalist time and date 5517, the date window is discretely tucked at 6 o’clock, which reinforces both balance and symmetry. This lays the foundation for the 5527, which also gets a more pared down aesthetic. In previous versions, we’ve typically seen a three-register chronograph layout, and now, we get two arranged between 3 and 9 o’clock displaying the chronograph minutes and small seconds respectively.
The updates to the foundational design language within these two references of the Marine collection may be the headline. However, we also get a more contemporary look and feel through the array of new colorways within the lines.
The new 5517 is offered in three different versions. First, we have a two-tone blue iteration featuring a lighter icy shade on the dial with deeper accents. A white gold build completes the cool palette with the choice of a bracelet or deep blue rubber strap. On the other end of the spectrum, we have an elevated rose gold version with a crisp black dial and, again, the option of a bracelet or black rubber strap. Finally, we have a unique twist on a tonal blue model, this time with a gradient dial and blue hour ring with a two-tone effect extending to the rose gold hands, hour markers, and date window in contrast to the titanium case. Here, there’s once again the choice of a bracelet or blue rubber strap.
Moving on to the 5527, we also have three colorways. First, there’s a white gold version with a gradient blue dial and the choice of a bracelet or blue rubber strap. Next up, a rose gold iteration, but in the chronograph model, the blue theme continues across the dial and hour ring to the rubber strap or alternatively, a bracelet option. Lastly, for the titanium variation of the 5527, we have a monochromatic grey color scheme that extends from the dial to the rubber strap option or the bracelet alternative.
The new Marine collection is available today. Prices ranging from $26,400-$48,900 for the 5517 on strap and $30,000 to $80,300 on bracelet. The 5527 is priced a bit higher, starting at $33,000 and going up to $59,400 on strap or running from $36,600 to $93,000 on bracelet. For more information, head over directly to Breguet.
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