What We Know
The MB&F SP One, released in 2025, was unlike any watch the brand had ever designed. And the name—SP stands for “Special Project” —was telling. The watch was neither a zany Horological Machine nor a futuristic twist on more conventional watch design like Legacy Machine. Rather, it was the brand’s first-ever take on a dress watch, in very compact proportions and with a movement suspended in the middle of it all. Those who doubted MB&F could ever make anything close to a dress watch have now been squarely disproven, with the design extremely well received by collectors and with a rather long waitlist today (three years for the platinum variant, and slightly shorter for the one in rose gold).
With the original two references in rose gold and platinum, MB&F now introduces a new, third variation in white gold called the SP One Pavée. The new case metal for the SP One is rather insignificant compared to the main change here: a complete gem-setting makeover. There are a lot of new diamonds in the new variant—255 to be exact.
On the 38mm pebble-shaped case, diamonds grace the midcase, contrasting with the distinctive floating lugs of the watch. Diamonds grace the cap of the crown, as well as the pin buckle of the light, seafoam-colored strap. But that’s not all—the inner beveled flange, previously a colorful brushed ring, is completely set in diamonds. The tilted dial, connected to the floating movement via conical gearing, is circularly brushed and treated with a splash of blue.
Powering the watch is the same striking in-house caliber seen in the original two versions, with the suspended mainspring barrel on the left, the balance wheel on the right, and the tilted dial sitting right below it. In an intentional act of visual balance, all three of these circles share the same circumference. The manual-winding SP One movement beats away at a leisurely 18,000 VpH (2.5 Hz), with a power reserve of 72 hours.
The new SP One Pavée is available through MB&F retailers and is priced at $104,000.
What We Think
I didn’t think we’d see a new variation of the SP One so soon after its introduction, especially since MB&F is working through a lengthy queue for the product right now. But the brand also is no stranger to gem-setting its creations, with some of the most distinctive sparkling designs in its Legacy Machine FlyingT.
If the SP One already felt like a very successful contradiction in MB&F’s typical playbook, this gem-set version continues that idea even further. This fully diamond-set version is certainly for a very specific customer, but I think that customer finds the subtlety of MB&F’s smallest watch paired with the loudness of diamonds quite exciting. I certainly wouldn’t blame them; this was kind of a wild watch to see in person. Thanks to the airiness of the entire design, and the relatively small surface area of actual metal surfaces for the gem setting to take place, I think it actually comes across as significantly more balanced and subtle than I might have imagined. You really need to get up close to fully appreciate the gem setting here, and I think that’s a good thing.
The Basics
Brand: MB&F
Model: SP One
Diameter: 38mm
Thickness: 12mm
Case Material: 18K white gold with diamonds
Dial Color: Blue
Indexes: Applied
Lume: No
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Strap with diamond-set pin buckle
The Movement
Caliber: SP One
Functions: Hours, minutes
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 18,000 VpH (2.5 Hz)
Jewels: 31
Pricing & Availability
Price: $104,000
Availability: MB&F Retailers
Limited Edition: No
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