I know we’re all here for watches, but there’s been so much killer music released in the last bit that it feels foolish not to at least note that, should you require some new jams, recent albums from Twisted Teens and Phoebe Bridgers are plenty deserving of attention, and if you haven’t checked out the available tracks from the new Alabama Shakes, hoo boy. I hope you’re all well as the days tick along.
Scorekeeping last week’s picks: the Lemania RAF monopusher sold for 2,000 GBP, and I can’t find what the Goodwill UG Clapton ultimately went for, but I saw it cleared $24,000. From the dealers, the Alpina-Gruen sold. The Cartier Shutter and RAN monopusher both remain available.
Strays
You really like watches and are also a sophisticated connoisseur, and you need a new table lighter—to ignite your guests’ cigars; what sort of host would you be otherwise—because someone made off with your last one? Here’s a nice sterling Alfred Dunhill for you which, yes, has a watch in it as well because, again, you’re sophisticated. Had there not been another watch in the same auction that seemed more interesting, this Omega 2998-4 would obviously have had a full write-up, but I’m also not sure what I would’ve written other than look at that thing. If you’re up for a trio of watches, this lot’s got a Tourneau “Top Gun,” a solid gold Charles Nicolet, and a fowl-related Helbros for the hunter in your life; and while this Audemars Freres has a rough dial, Audemars Freres watches are uncommon enough to justify inclusion.
Photo courtesy of Invaluable.
If you don’t know the Wittnauer Futurama 1000—what a Jetsons-ish name—it’s a double retrograde watch, meaning the minute hand snaps up to top of the dial at the start of each hour and descends over the next 60 minutes, and the hour hand does the same thing every twelve hours, and while this particular example is missing its crown, I have to assume at least one of you is desperate for a fun project to keep occupied till the weather really changes. This Omega Cosmic isn’t flawless, but those specks on the dial seem mostly to enhance the thing’s beauty, although maybe it’s just that I’ve been so hopelessly seduced by those hour numerals. Finally, for those mostly interested in wearing their watch like a literal prop, here’s the Faux Panerai Luminor Stallone wore in Rambo.
Seiko Sportura Titanium (ref SLQ011)
Let’s start with reasons to ignore or avoid this watch. First and foremost, the watch’s shape and design are incredibly specific, and likely not only to attract folks with a particular aesthetic but also to repel folks who prefer the classic layout we expect from a watch. The thing looks like a smoothed-out and vaguely alien-ish take on the Halter Antiqua.
Photo courtesy of Azur Enchères.
Most significantly, the SLQ009 is powered by the Seiko 9T82, which is a kinetic movement. Seiko’s kinetic movements are legitimately horologically significant, as they were the first to harness movement-generated power, convert it to electricity, store it in a capacitor, and then power the watch. These movements should be considered the animals that crawled so the Spring Drive could walk.
However, 9T82 movements are tricky precisely because they use a capacitor—or, as Seiko calls it, an ESU, or an Electricity Storage Unit. Capacitors wear out, and they wear out much more quickly when not in use, meaning if you’re looking at a watch from the early 2000s that uses a capacitor for power storage, you’re almost certainly looking at a serious service, likely costing into the four figures, and which’ll require the watch to be sent back to Seiko.
Those are significant hurdles, certainly, but if you vibe with the aesthetic and can stomach the work it’ll take to get the watch running (the listing doesn’t note if the watch is, in fact, functioning), this Sportura Titanium is fantastic. It looks to be in good shape physically, with a clean case sporting wear but nothing egregious—it comes on its original titanium bracelet, features an exhibition caseback through which you can see the very well-finished movement, and the chronograph tracks elapsed time to the tenth of a second (the aperture on the far left).
This watch sells at auction on the 26th in Cannes, France, with an estimate of €500-700.
Breitling Tabarly Racing Mate 80770
Apologies for yet another weirdo timepiece, but this Breitling 80770 Racing Mate is too good to ignore. Let’s acknowledge the elephant in the room first: yes, the bracelet’s awfully familiar, but don’t let its similarity to what you’d find on another integrated sports watch fool you into thinking this watch has Genta fingerprints anywhere near it.
Photo courtesy of Alexandre Landre.
In fact, the caseback makes clear that the watch was “Designed and Tested with Eric Tabarly,” who, for those who don’t know, was the “legendary father of French Sailing.” Obviously this is an 80s/90s watch—it’s still got tritium—and there seemingly weren’t all that many made of the model. If you do some research on this reference, you’ll see that the overwhelming majority came with Tabarly on the dial, which makes this example even stranger.
Photo courtesy of Alexandre Landre.
Photo courtesy of Alexandre Landre.
I confess, Baller, that I’m not totally certain who or what the Racing Mate on this dial refers to. Presumably it’s the Japanese outfit that worked with Heuer in the 70s to offer a co-signed Monza, but I honestly don’t know. Whoever does know, feel free to drop a comment.
Regardless of all of that, the watch itself is a 34.5mm diameter charmer, with a distinctive rotating bezel with screws on each of the 12 planes, a clean dial with full and aged lume plots matching hands that’ve oxidized a bit, a screw-down crown, and, of course, that integrated bracelet. Yes, it’s powered by a quartz movement, and given that the seconds hand hasn’t moved in any of the pictures, the best-case scenario is that it needs a new battery, and the worst-case scenario is that it needs a repair or a donor movement. Physically, however, the watch looks to be in excellent, borderline incredible condition, meaning whatever work you put into this will ultimately pay off in the form of a great-looking uncommon reference from a fantastic brand.
Photo courtesy of Alexandre Landre.
This lot is part of an auction that starts on the 24 and runs through the 26th, with a €750-950 estimate.
Hublot Classic Fusion Orlinski Titanium
I get why Hublot’s aesthetics, branding, or whatever can be divisive, but they make too many rad watches to dismiss out of hand. If price weren’t a consideration, would I be a buyer of this green gorgeousness? 100%.
Photo courtesy of Meticulist.
Which brings us to this Classic Fusion Orlinski. If you don’t know Richard Orlinkski or his aesthetic, let me beat you to the punch and assure you that you know more than you think simply by looking at this watch. The multi-plane dial you see here, with all those creases and angles, is recognizable from his sculptural work (his paintings, not so much).
Photo courtesy of Meticulist.
Photo courtesy of Meticulist.
The watch—offered by Meticulist for $8950—retains the elemental DNA of the Hublot Classic Fusion with quite a few changes. The case remains 40mm, as you’d expect, and the watch is powered by the HUB1100 (which, admittedly, is based on a Sellita 300, though finished by Hublot), but the bezel and bracelet are significantly Orlinski’d, made angular and reflective to go with the dial. Interestingly, the dial itself (unsurprisingly, considering its shape) features no printing at all—the Hublot and Swiss Made you see are on the sapphire crystal.
Photo courtesy of Meticulist.
Is it a lot of watch? It totally is—maybe not loud so much as intense. Is a time-only modern watch at $9k a stretch? Certainly. But if you’re looking for something that’ll likely offer a whole lot of pleasure just in how it catches and reflects light, this Hublot’s got a ton going for it. Again, it’s available at Meticulist for $8950.
Yema Sous Marine ‘Tomahawk’
Photo courtesy of Drouot.
Let’s finish with a simpler, less pricey, but still fun option. If you don’t immediately figure out why this Yema has the nickname it does, I urge you to look at the picture a little longer, and eventually you’ll get it.
Powered by a Valjoux 7734, this watch is clearly from the 70s, and the tonneau-shaped steel case is 40mm wide. I can’t tell whether the edges are a bit soft or the pictures just aren’t capturing things clearly enough. There seem to be a few scuffs on the white paint in the center of the dial, but only if you zoom in incredibly close. The hands and lume look excellent, and while the dial plots have darkened with age, it certainly hasn’t been messed with, relumed, or touched up.
Photo courtesy of Drouot.
Photo courtesy of Drouot.
This watch is a great example of why it’s useful not to always think or desire in terms of grails. You buy and wear a watch like this because of its rugged, easy charm. As much fun as it can be to fantasize and daydream about six-figure watches you’ll buy when your ship comes in, none of us can eat filet mignon or caviar every night. You need variety to appreciate the really great stuff, but that doesn’t mean the variety has to be lesser or unpleasant. This watch is chicken fingers, or a sandwich—something more affordable and ready for everyday wear that won’t put too tight a squeeze on you. It sells on the 25th for an estimated 800-1,200 GBP.
