For many enthusiasts, Tissot’s Gentleman has come to represent not only a compelling entry point into the world of mechanical Swiss watchmaking but is also touted by many as a contender for a “one and done” watch collection. Though it’s received considerably less hype than the brand’s megastar PRX collection, the Gentleman has occupied, much like its design language, a more understated lane of success. But even among those who have come to love the more demure yet equally capable Gentleman, there has been one continuous gripe among collectors: the size. From its inception, the collection has been limited to one size and one size only, 40mm – until today that is. Now, Tissot has listened to the pleas of its fanbase for a more svelte Gentleman, debuting new 38mm sizing in four dial color options.
[toc-section heading=”Case and Wear”]
Case sizes have been trending smaller for years now, and the demand for pieces in the 36mm-39mm range doesn’t seem to be going anywhere anytime soon. As of late, Tissot seems to be tapped into what its audience wants and is intent on delivering it, given the recent 38mm PRX models that the brand debuted just last year, in addition to today’s news. The Gentleman collection was particularly suited to getting downsized, as many enthusiasts have pointed out that it tends to wear larger on the wrist than the specs suggest on paper.
Ultimately, the goal of this launch is not to reinvent the wheel. The wheel was already working really well, but a lot of people thought it could be even better if it were a little more sleek. The 38mm sizing is met with an 11.53mm case profile. In comparison, the standard 40mm mechanical Gentleman measures at 11.5mm in thickness. Yes the 38mm option is taller, or thicker, than the 40mm but only by a hair – and for a logical reason: both watches utilize movements of identical sizing though they aren’t identical in construction.
The sharply angled lugs, mixing of the brushed and polished details, and exposition caseback remain at play for this new sizing option. The three-link bracelet (which has been something of a frustration for many enthusiasts) has not undergone any drastic changes, as far as we can tell. Though there is a quick-release mechanism, the butterfly clasp has not received a microadjustment upgrade.
[toc-section heading=”Dial”]
For those already acquainted with the Gentleman, the dial design will feel quite (pleasantly) familiar. A leading principle of the collection, after all, is everyday-carry oriented restraint, and the dial is left without any superfluous details (unless you are in the anti-date-window camp). We’ve got the slightly trapezoidal applied indices with luminous pips just above them, sword-shaped hands with a Super-LumiNova-filled center, a date window at three with a white background, accompanied by the minimal “Tissot 1853” under twelve, and “Powermatic 80” script above six. Notice something missing? If you answered the “Silicium” text, you would be correct. More on that later.
Currently, Tissot has launched this 38mm sizing adventure in four distinct colors: blue, silver, green, and black. Aligning with the larger style codes of the collection, each dial color features a subtle sunray brushed finish.
[toc-section heading=”Movement”]
As I alluded to above, the 38mm Tissot Gentleman, notably, is not equipped with a silicon balance spring like its 40mm siblings. We’ve still got Tissot’s bread-and-butter Powermatic 80 movement (which is developed by ETA), but this is somewhat of a compromise. In lieu of the more premium, extremely anti-magnetic Silicium, the Nivachron balance spring is at play. But for those who were initially drawn to the Gentleman for offering Silicium at such an attainable price point, this might feel like a letdown. Still, the Powermatic 80 delivers on the extensive power reserve front, which is, of course, 80 hours. This also adds a third movement option to the mix considering that the 40mm Gentleman also comes in a quartz variant.
[toc-section heading=”Final Thoughts”]
It always amazes me just how impactful a few millimeters can be in the world of watchmaking. With this subtle downsizing, the audience is not only getting what they’ve been waiting for, but I think the Gentleman itself has become the size it was really meant to be. All four models are available now, and priced at $850. For more information, head to the Tissot website here.
