Singaporean independent brand Zelos is known for their colorful and texture-forward dials that strike a nice balance between affordability and unique design. Each new creation seems to drive their overall image forward in eclectic ways that keep the brand from fitting too rigidly into any one box. While Zelos is often associated with their sub $1,000 tool watches, they have made spectacular forays into the space of haute complications and uncommon materials in recent years. Their release of the Mirage in 2020, a watch that featured a tourbillon at a competitive $11,000 pricepoint, and their work using tantalum as a case material, is proof that the brand is committed to stretching the imagination regarding what a microbrand is capable of.
Their newest release, the Comet 39, joins the ranks of the recent trend of stone dials we’ve seen permeating the hobby in the past few years. Since the trend is fairly new, my experience with stone dials is limited, and I was looking forward to getting hands-on with this piece. I was lucky to be able to pick up this review watch in-person at the Windup Watch Fair in New York City a few weeks ago while I was visiting. Complementary sizing by David Lane Design at Windup allowed me to wear the watch around the city during my trip and get a sense for how it moved with me during high-volume days.
The Mother of Pearl (MOP) edition is one in a series of three Comet watches in the brand’s new Comet 39 line, all of which are crafted with various stone materials. As its name implies, the reference I had in for review features a rich MOP dial, while the other two options – the Meteorite and Vulcan – are designed out of meteorite and a forged carbon and tiger eye stone mix, respectively.
This stainless steel Comet 39 MOP is 39mm in diameter with a lug to lug measurement of 45mm. Thirty-nine millimeters can wear a variety of ways depending on different factors. I’ve owned and reviewed 39mm watches that have felt more like 36mm and others whose lugs overhung so far off my wrist I had to measure it myself before believing the spec sheet. This Comet 39 feels like a “true to size” 39mm watch. It’s also a case study in how a lug to lug measurement has much more bearing on wrist fit than a diameter measurement. I know some folks who discount watches based on diameter alone, but serious players know the L2L is the real MVP. The sharply angled lugs ensure the watch fits snugly against the wrist and the polished finishing on them offers a nice contrast in texture to the brushed case and crown.
Mother of pearl is notoriously reflective, so it’s not surprising the dial on this watch catches one’s eye. However, a little research into nacre (the technical name for mother of pearl) reveals just how difficult a feat it is to engrave literally anything on a MOP dial, let alone a complex guilloché pattern with increasingly compact lines towards the center. Mother of pearl ranks a 3.5 on the Mohs scale of hardness, which means it’s a very soft material, overall. Part of this softness comes from the many irregular microscopic layers of aragonite crystals and proteins – the overlap of these proteins in various shapes and sizes mean the density of the material varies across its surface.
All of this leads to a high possibility of chips and breakages during the guilloché process, necessitating a painstaking and methodical design approach. For Zelos to be engaging in this level of finishing at a sub $2,000 pricepoint is remarkable. Further, one of the highlights of using stone dials in the Comet lineup, in my opinion, is that any naturally occurring material like this offers a guarantee that every dial design will be one of a kind.
Applied Arabic numerals at 3,6, and 12 give the watch a bit of a sporty vibe, and the running seconds subdial at 6 o’clock features a smaller guilloché spiral of its own. This subdial is framed by a blue railroad seconds track emulating the larger chapter ring around the outside of the dial. The skeletonized hands and the indices are coated with BGW9 Grade x1 Super-LumiNova, which, for the MOP edition specifically, is consistent with the blue-toned color scheme. This reference has a water resistance of 50m.
The Comet 39 MOP is powered by the Swiss ETA/Peseux 7001 movement, which is a ultra-slim, hand-wound caliber, and its one that Zelos has used in the past with their Nova 37mm. Though this movement is a common one, the brand reworked the bridges to add their own design elements to the caliber in the Comet 39. Due in part to the hand-wound nature of the movement, the watch boasts a thickness of only 9.4mm, including the boxed sapphire crystal.
The five-link bracelet features a mix of brushed and polished center links. It tapers from a width of 20mm to 16mm at the clasp – which offers an external button with quick adjust and features an engraved logo. The comfort of the bracelet and its flexibility were acceptable for the pricepoint, and my only qualm was with the style. For me, the polished center links detracted from the highly reflective mother of pearl dial. I think the overall aesthetic would have benefitted from either full brushing on the bracelet, or a less flashy three-link option. If I was adding this watch to my own collection, I’d probably just opt for a navy or white alligator-grain leather strap – something to really class it up and let the dial take center stage.
Overall, the Zelos Comet 39 ‘MOP’ edition offers a relatively affordable entry into the beauty and incredible intricacy of stone dials. Once again, Zelos has navigated the nuance between offering enthusiasts on-trend options while still adding their own take within the wide breadth of their design language. Those interested in this watch will be sure to appreciate not only the captivating depth of its dial but also the thoughtful balance of craftsmanship, individuality, and value that have become a hallmark of Zelos timepieces.
The Comet 39 ‘MOP’ Launch Special is currently available at the brand’s website for $1,699.
