Omega is introducing a new Speedmaster to kick off the new year, as is customary at this point, and this time, it’s a familiar face getting a regular production re-work. Contrasting sub-dials on the Moonwatch are generally reserved for special editions and precious metal executions, but that changes today with the introduction of a steel reference boasting a black lacquered dial and contrasting white sub-dials, better known as a reverse panda colorway. The configuration isn’t unique to the Speedmaster, but it does represent the first regular production example that will be available to all. This watch joins the all white lacquered dial Speedmaster released two years ago in expanding the core Moonwatch collection into more premium territory, all while recalling a handful of all-time classic Speedmaster references.
The standard, matte black dial Moonwatch still serves as the foundation of the collection, and remains the closest link to the references that walked on the moon in the late 60s and early 70s. In 2024, the steel Moonwatch diversified itself by welcoming a standard production reference with a white lacquer dial that brought out a different wrinkle of the famous chronograph’s personality. Like this reverse panda reference, the all white dial was also based on historic references, but presented in a very clean, almost chic manner that elevated the iconic design to another level. This new black dial with white sub-dials manages to do the same thing while striking a very different tone.
Alongside the steel reference, Omega is also releasing the same dial in a full 18k Moonshine gold execution, as was first seen on the wrist of actor Colman Domingo at the 2025 Met Gala. Obviously, the gold case and bracelet shifts the personality of the watch a considerable degree, but it still works just as well. This represents a further expansion of the precious metal end of the Moonwatch catalog, showing off the range of the Speedmaster design at its most extravagant.
Like the white dial, this black dial has a notable flat sheen thanks to the lacquer surface, within which the white sub-dials are recessed. Additionally, the hour markers are applied batons, creating another layer of depth to the design that you find in the ‘base model’. The Omega logo is applied and polished, as are a set of links running down the center of the bracelet. All of the small details elevate this timeless chronograph to something bordering on formal, but without really crossing that line, which is an important distinction.
The twisted lug case remains unchanged, measuring 42mm in diameter, and just under 13.2mm in thickness with an exhibition caseback. The crown and pushers are recessed into the asymmetric casewall, making for one of the most wearable 42mm watches you’re likely to come across. The tapered bracelet helps here as well, going from 20mm at the case, down to 16mm at the clasp. It’s a brilliant watch on the wrist, all things considered.
Inside sits Omega’s caliber 3861, a manually winding chronograph that was the first to bring a co-axial escapement to the Moonwatch (though not to the Speedmaster) when it debuted in 2021. This is an evolution of the 1861 and 861 before it, and is based on a Lemania structure (cal. 1873). The chronograph is a cam style actuation, so the button presses aren’t exactly silky smooth, but it’s proven to be a reliable workhorse movement. It’s also accurate to the tune of 0 to +5 seconds per day, and is METAS certified to boot.
In total, this is a welcome addition to the Moonwatch family, and one that solidifies an iconic dial in regular production guise. It’s different enough to keep some space between it and the Speedy Tuesday limited edition, for instance, and serves as a counter to the white lacquer dial. The newest Speedmaster will be priced at $10,400 in steel and $49,300 in Moonshine Gold.
