Chopard has unveiled the Zagato Lab One Concept, an experimental timepiece in ceramicised titanium and the lightest watch ever produced by the Maison.
Weighing just 43.20 grams including the strap (36.5 grams without), the concept was developed in close collaboration with the Zagato Design Studio, continuing a partnership that started in 2013 with he Mille Miglia Zagato Chronograph.
Founded in 1919 by Ugo Zagato, the Italian automotive atelier pioneered the use of aeronautical techniques in racing cars, combining lightweight aluminium bodies with tubular chassis. This approach created streamlined, aerodynamically optimised forms, resulting in iconic, highly collectible designs.
Unveiled at the Retromobile Salon in Paris, the Zagato Lab One Concept draws directly from this tubular chassis architecture. The movement is supported by a framework of tubes that maximises rigidity while minimising weight, a principle borrowed from racing cars.
Beyond its structural benefits, this framework distributes mechanical stress in the event of impact, enhancing durability.
The case continues the automotive theme. Open tubular loops replace traditional lugs, allowing the watch to sit naturally on the wrist. These loops pivot approximately 45 degrees on each side, ensuring comfort and adaptability.
The crown is inspired by automotive differential gears and engraved with a steering wheel motif, a signature of Chopard’s Classic Racing collection.
Measuring 42 mm × 11.15 mm, the case, bridges, and mainplate are all crafted from ceramicised titanium, produced by oxidising titanium through an electro-plasma process.
The material achieves a hardness of around 1,000 Vickers, offering shock and scratch resistance comparable to ceramic.
Originally developed for aerospace and automotive applications, ceramicised titanium combines extreme durability with low weight.
Its anthracite-grey tone is intrinsic to the material and remains stable over time—ideal for a watch designed for demanding conditions.
The movement’s mainplate doubles as the dial, decorated with Zagato’s repeating “Z” motif, with chamfers highlighted by a rhodium-plated finish. The Chopard and Zagato logos appear in subtle positive relief.
A box-shaped sapphire crystal sits flush with the caseband, enhancing legibility and depth, a solution echoed on the caseback, where a matching sapphire window reveals the movement.
Powering the watch is Chopard Manufacture’s L.U.C 04.04-L, an evolution of the Engine One Tourbillon calibre first introduced in 2010.
This hand-wound movement, chronometer-certified by the COSC, comprises 207 components, operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), and delivers a 60-hour power reserve.
Automotive-inspired features include a shock-absorbing system with elastomer “silent blocks” and four lever arms integrated into the caseband, protecting the calibre while maintaining stability.
At its centre, a 60-second tourbillon with a small seconds dial houses a Variner balance and a Phillips terminal-curve hairspring in an aluminium carriage, further reducing weight.
Water resistant to 50 metres / 165 feet, the watch is offered with two straps: technical fabric with a hook-and-loop fastener and anthracite ceramicised titanium loop, or calfskin leather with an engraved pin buckle.
Limited to 19 pieces, the Chopard Zagato Lab One Concept, ref. 168636-3001, has a retail price of €149,500. chopard.com
