What We Know
If our ability to value our precious time is a gift, then the simplicity of the Mermont La Parfaite reminds us to slow down and savor it. The debut public model from the new Swiss brand is a study in elevated minimalism. A solo hour hand, polished and hand-finished by master watchmaker Nicolas Delaloye, is the centerpiece.
Sculpted and curved with a heart or spade-shaped cutout, the heat-treated, single stainless steel hand has been hand-finished and sits high enough from the dial that it can be observed from multiple angles. It circles the slanted minute track dial once every twelve hours, making precise reading of the time more of a loose, approximate estimate than an exact by-the-second measurement. That’s despite the fact that the hand-wound movement is regulated by Delaloye to high accuracy.
And that’s the point. The pared-down time telling demands one take stock and consider the few, but highly considered design choices from the brand, founded by Swiss-based collector and watch expert Sebastien Bey-Haut, that is produced and assembled in Geneva at Delaloye’s facilities.
The color-shifting blue dial features a colimaçon sunburst finish, achieved with colored pigments mixed with Zapon varnish. And indeed, seen in person, the colors of the dial can change dramatically depending on the light, from a bright blue to inky navy and even dark purple.
The classic slanted minute track is surrounded by printed Breguet-style numerals. While the ‘Mermont’ brand logo sits prominently at 12 o’clock above the handset, the model name La Parfaite (the perfect one) is below at 6 o’clock but only visible under certain lighting conditions, underscoring the subtle and restrained design.
The 38 millimeter diameter case is made from weighty platinum and is 9.2mm in height, upgrading the wearing experience on the wrist. Highly polished, with a concave bezel, the case features brushed elements as well and, in another nod to classic watchmaking design, an updated take on cornes de vache lugs. The angles of the crown continue the style of the slanted minute track.
The closed caseback, engraved with the model name and confirming the watch assembly and movement regulation in Geneva, is produced in tantalum, a more durable, skin-friendly material that offers a finish and weight that continue the precious metal theme and feel.
The caseback conceals a third-party, manual wind movement. It’s the top-of-the-range La Joux-Perret D101. The movement beats at a rate of 21,600vph and has 50 hours of power reserve. Mermont says each movement is regulated by Delaloye to +/-3 seconds per day.
This sunburst blue dial version is the second iteration and first publicly available of the La Parfaite, with a previous salmon-dial model (family and friends) version having sold out. Mermont will produce 28 pieces, and they are priced at CHF 10,998. The watch has strap-swapping-friendly 20mm lugs and comes on a black textile strap with a platinum buckle. The strap tapers to 16mm at the buckle.
What We Think
Pondering the minimalist but considered design with hand-finished elements is an exercise in deciding what really matters in a high-end Swiss watch. With its precious metal case and classic lugs, striking sculpted single-hand and inviting dial, the La Parfaite has stripped out much of what we don’t need while elevating what remains.
With its case design and finishing, Breguet-style numerals and subtle details, it’s also a nod to collectors and enthusiasts who recognize some of the core elements of classic watchmaking. And the use of a single hand to tell the time, also shouldn’t be seen as particularly unusual, considering Breguet’s Classique Souscription took the GPHG’s top prize – the Aiguilles d’Or (golden hands) – just last year, and it did so with just one hand.
When one only considers the La Joux-Perret movement, top-end and regulated though it may be, the price tag might seem steep. But considering the hand-finished elements, the shape-shifting dial with classic design, the assembly and movement regulation by Delaloye, not to mention the uniquely finished and shaped platinum (with tantalum caseback) case, this seems not unreasonable for a limited production, Swiss independent, time-only watch.
The Basics
Brand: Mermont
Model: La Parfaite
Diameter: 38mm
Thickness: 9.2mm
Case Material: Platinum with tantalum caseback
Dial Color: Blue with colimaçon sunburst finishing
Indexes: Printed Breguet style
Lume: No
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Black textile 20mm
The Movement
Caliber: La Joux-Perret D101 (regulated to +/- 3 seconds per day)
Functions: Hours and minutes (single hand)
Diameter: 23.7mm
Thickness: 2.8mm
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 21,600 VpH (3hz)
Jewels: 18
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: (regulated to +/- 3 seconds per day)
Pricing & Availability
Price: CHF 10,998
Availability: Orders open now with deliveries starting in June.
Limited Edition: Yes, limited to 28 pieces.
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