The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Paul Pessagno

STYLOUX
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After a bit of a break, 3 for $5k is back! The reader edition of this series has always been a favorite, as it allows Worn & Wound’s audience to chime in on the watches they own, or would buy, with a hypothetical $5,000 budget.

The fun with these is always in the approach, and today we have a unique spin from reader Paul Pessagno. His Instagram handle is @bigwristwatchguy, which should give you an idea of his perspective on collecting. With a nearly 9 inch wrist, Paul sought out watches for this exercise that look appropriate on a big wrist, but still represent a balanced collecting philosophy. 

Let us know what you think of Paul’s picks in the comments below, and stay tuned for future editions of The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition.

The modern watch industry has a clear darling right now, the 38mm to 40mm “sweet spot.” Brands are downsizing across the board, digging into their archives, and championing historically accurate, compact proportions. But having an 8.85 inch wrist fundamentally changes how a timepiece wears. When you fall outside the industry average, those celebrated mid-century dimensions can easily end up looking less like a serious horological instrument and more like a vintage toy.

 

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Building a versatile three watch rotation presents a unique challenge for the larger wristed collector. A great collection isn’t just about stubbornly picking the biggest, loudest cases available on the market; it’s about finding watches with substantial physical presence, proper lug-to-lug proportions that span the wrist appropriately, and have genuine horological merit.

The goal here is simple: to assemble a perfectly balanced trio including a rugged diver, an everyday casual piece, and a chronograph, all while staying comfortably under the $5,000 budget.

Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80

Estimated Price: $1,225

Every well rounded collection needs a watch that can take a beating, and the Tissot Seastar 2000 is a true beast of a diver. Measuring 46mm in diameter, 16.25mm thick, and stretching to a 52mm lug-to-lug, these dimensions provide the necessary heft and visual weight to look perfectly at home on a large wrist without any awkward overhang.

Beyond its imposing footprint, the Seastar 2000 brings horological merit to the table. This is an ISO 6425-certified professional dive watch, featuring a discrete helium escape valve and a knurled bezel for easy manipulation. The dial features an engraved wave pattern that plays nicely with the light. Inside beats the Swatch Group’s Powermatic 80 movement, notably equipped with an anti-magnetic Nivachron balance spring. The Seastar is a weekend warrior that won’t get lost on a larger arm.

Shinola Runwell Automatic

Estimated Price: $1,395

For the daily driver, we turn to Detroit, Michigan. Opting for the 45.5mm version of the Runwell Automatic takes full advantage of Shinola’s signature wire-style lugs and generous dial real estate. The brilliant thing about the Runwell’s case geometry is that it wears incredibly wide but stays relatively flat against the wrist. This helps make the watch feel perfectly scaled and comfortable.

The Runwell Automatic also marks a significant milestone in Shinola’s maturation into the enthusiast space. Stepping away from their standard quartz movements, this model utilizes a reliable Swiss automatic caliber (the Sellita SW260-1). It boasts a distinct, Americana-driven design language paired with solid case finishing and a very nice Horween leather strap. With its clean aesthetic and bold Arabic numerals, it should work with a t-shirt and jeans while also being appropriate in a business casual office environment.

Certina DS Chronograph Automatic

Estimated Price: $2,320

At 42mm, the Certina DS Chronograph Automatic is technically the smallest watch in the trio, but chronographs inherently wear larger than standard three-handers. The squared-off pushers, the substantial case thickness required to house the movement, and the box sapphire crystal all combine to give this watch an imposing stance that easily holds its own on a bigger wrist.

The Certina DS Chronograph offers phenomenal value for a mechanical chronograph. It has a solid movement with modern features like a silicon balance spring and a power reserve of 68 hours. Visually, it has a classic two register layout with sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock, with telemeter and tachymeter scales on the outer track. This is the “dress-adjacent” conversation starter of the collection. It brings a touch of mid-century design into the rotation, and is ideal for more formal outings.

The Final Tally

This three watch collection proves that collectors with larger wrists do not have to compromise on variety or mechanics, and that there are options where real value is present. Building a collection for a larger wrist doesn’t mean you are relegated to oversized fashion watches or enormous divers. By focusing on smart case design and strategic lug-to-lug geometry, we’ve assembled a rotation that covers every base. 

The post The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Paul Pessagno appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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