Tudor is at its best when they surprise. Sure, there have been some controversial pieces over the years, like the North Flag and P01 (though I’d argue they were both very successful as attention grabbers), but watches like the BB54, BB58 925, and even FXD took us off guard when they first dropped. This year, Tudor has followed suit with the Monarch, a watch that took us off guard in the press release but impressed in person.
Before getting to the watch, it was made clear to us that although this year marks 100 years of the brand, they aren’t throwing a big celebration for themselves, nor did they release a watch specifically dedicated to the centennial anniversary. The Monarch, which is a spiritual recreation or tribute to an early 20th-century Tudor model, is meant to acknowledge said birthday. So, basically, don’t call it an anniversary watch, just an anniversary-like watch. Ok, with that out of the way, let’s take a look at this surprisingly cool new model.
Measuring 39mm in diameter, 11.9mm thick, and, I’m estimating, as this dimension was not provided, in the neighborhood of 48mm lug-to-lug, so basically BB58 sized, the Monarch, despite some vintage cues, looked and felt pleasantly modern on the wrist. The case, made of stainless steel, was quite different from others in the Tudor lineup. It had hooded, aggressively chamfered lugs, with a sharply faceted drop-off. There were also flat segments on either side of the case, emphasizing a geometric overall shape that is uncommon for the brand. Though not an integrated design, on the h-link bracelet (also a completely different design for the brand), it felt almost as though it was. The case also features a very thin, screw-down crown, and 100m water resistance.
The caseback features a display window, which is uncommon for Tudor but well-earned in this instance, as the new MT5662-2U caliber has been decorated in a traditional manner. Rather than the sort of industrial, matte, or laser-engraved surfaces seen on the rarely shown Tudor/Kennisi caliber, the MT5662-2U features Côte de Genève on the nearly full plate under the rotor, as well as on the full-bridge holding the free-sprung balance. Additionally, the main plate, though largely hidden, has perlage. The rotor features a new and appealing design, with golden engraved text. It looked good.
The movement is not just new by of finishing, it’s also the first of Tudor’s in-house calibers with a sub-seconds, which is prominently featured on the dial. One of those “you have to see it in person” colors, they call the dial “papyrus-toned.” In the metal, it’s a deep, warm golden color with a metallic texture and a vertically brushed surface. The dial features a California-style index of applied gloss-black markers, with the shield logo at twelve, encircled by a printed black railroad index. I’m not the biggest on California dials, but this did work with the watch.
At six is the sub-seconds dial, which is properly positioned and nicely proportioned. Sunken into the dial, it has a chamfered edge and a grained texture, adding some contrast and depth. The hour and minute hands have a provocative tapering shape, widening toward a skeletonized “snowflake”-esque diamond, then tapering back to a point. It all comes together into a slightly strange yet oddly compelling composition.
Priced at $5,875 the Monarch is on the higher end of Tudor’s offerings, coming in about $1,000 over the BB58 on a bracelet. This likely speaks to the higher level of finishing throughout, but especially on the movement. It’s worth noting that Monarch is Master Chronometer-certified, adding to its overall value.
A striking watch in person, I was surprised by how much I liked it. It doesn’t come off as dressy, despite having more traditional/vintage elements to, likely due to the size and overall tanky feel. My only critique from my short time with it is that, while fitting well, felt a little large for the style. 37mm would have been ideal (for me). The dial’s luster adds a lot to its charm, so I recommend going to a store to see it before judging. Watch aside, I’m also excited that they’ve added a sub-second caliber to their arsenal, as I hope they’ll utilize it on other designs/lines. Tudor
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