What We Know
This week at Watches and Wonders, Hermès introduces the new H08 Squelette. Leaning into a more industrial aesthetic, this new H08 marks the first skeletonized execution for the line. The silhouette remains the same as that of the other time-and-date H08s, with a 39mm-wide squared cushion case paired with a wide rubber strap. The case is executed in black DLC-coated titanium, paired with a tone-on-tone radially brushed black ceramic bezel. Compensating for the new caliber, the case is slightly thicker, going from 10.6mm to 11.69mm.
The focus here is certainly on the new dial-slash-movement, thanks to the in-house (through the brand’s partial ownership of Vaucher) H1978S movement. From the front, most of the dial is removed, leaving only a square central minutes track that echoes the shape of the case, and applied hour numerals fixed on the periphery of the dial via an outer dial ring. This is also notably the first time-only H08 in the collection, with the date functionality omitted from this movement. The H08 Squelette comes in two dials, one in “Bleu Zanzibar” with the hour numerals, lume on the hands, and minutes track given the bright blue accents. The other is a sleeker grey dial, leaning into the colors of the caliber with numerals, printing, and lume executed in shades of grey and white.
From the front, the remaining structural bridges of the new caliber are apparent thanks to a bold, asymmetrical, and offset X-shaped design. At the top sit the two barrels, with the gear train leading to the balance wheel seen mounted to a visible ruby from the front. What’s most interesting is that, save for the pink ruby for the balance wheel, Hermès has opted to use clear rubies for the other jewels in the movement, a nice, quirky aesthetic choice to add to the monochromatic look.
Flip the case over, and there’s even more of the movement to see. My favorite touch is the shape of the skeletonized rotor, matching the lines formed by the case, and mirroring the minutes track we saw on the front of the watch. It’s a commitment to a single aesthetic that I quite appreciate here. But most impressive of all is the fact that the bridges of this new skeletonized caliber are actually machined out of titanium. This is notoriously difficult to machine for cases, much less movements, and there’s a reason there aren’t many watches with full-titanium calibers. Whether this detail actually resonates with H08 owners remains to be seen, but it’s certainly tickled the fancy of this watch nerd writing about it.
Despite only two “dial” colors, the H08 Squelette is being offered on a variety of straps. For the Bleu Zanzibar model, the watch can be delivered on a matching blue or contrasting black rubber strap. For the grey dial, the rubber strap can be chosen in either dune, vert moyen (green), or bleu abysse. The H08 Squelette is priced at $21,600.
What We Think
Hermès is no stranger to skeletonized dials. Its Arceau Squelette is probably one of the more iconic watches in its lineup, and one of my personal favorite watches ever is the brand’s Slim d’Hermès Squelette. The H08 Squelette is certainly an interesting (and visually distinct) take, with a more rugged industrial look that pairs very well with the H08’s overall look, feel, and intended use.
Though some might be uncertain about the prominent X-shaped bridges, especially from the front, they give the architecture a deliberate feel, especially paired with the knowledge that the bridges are made out of titanium. Choosing to make a titanium movement is an incredibly surprising choice from the brand, as it’s no doubt a big reason why this H08 sits at a much higher price point than the others. My pick between the two variants here is most certainly the grey dial. Yes, the Bleu Zanzibar is fun, but I like the more subdued numerals of the grey dial that make the overall look more cohesive and stealthy.
The Basics
Brand: Hermès
Model: H08 Squelette
Diameter: 39mm
Thickness: 11.69mm
Case Material: DLC-coated titanium with brushed ceramic bezel
Dial Color: Grey or Bleu Zanzibar
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Yes, Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Rubber strap in various colors
The Movement
Caliber: Hermès Manufacture movement H1978S
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Diameter: 27mm
Thickness: 4.165mm
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 VpH (4 Hz)
Jewels: 26
Chronometer Certified: No
Pricing & Availability
Price: $21,600
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No
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