LVMH Watch Week has become the first of the blast waves of new releases we can expect every year. Siloed to one group, it leans toward the high end. Actually, very high end, with the most eye-catching releases relegated to Daniel Roth, Gerald Genta, and the eponymous Louis Vuitton, the latter of which actually had the most intriguing releases of them all. “Über collector” brands the lot; there’s plenty to appreciate, especially as they lean into haute-indie aesthetics. Yet, the lack of accessibility for us mere mortals takes a bit of the fun out of it. LVMH is not exactly known as an “approachable” luxury mega-conglomerate, but at least with Zenith and TAG Heuer in its portfolio, it has some brands that lean toward enthusiasts.
After spending an afternoon with Hublot, Zenith, and TAG Heuer, getting to see a sample of novelties (it was pretty clear that all are holding back for Watches & Wonders), the watch that left the strongest impression a day later was TAG’s Carrera Seafarer. A follow-up to their 2024 Hodinkee collaboration, the major differences are the new color, which is exquisite, the “beads of rice” bracelet, and widespread availability. Having never encountered the Hodinkee collab in the metal, getting to try the Seafarer on for the first time left an impression.
IMAGE COURTESY OF ANALOG/SHIFT
For those unfamiliar with the Seafarer’s heritage, here’s a tl;dr: they were a line of chronographs that included a unique additional complication, a tide indicator, in place of a running seconds display, which were manufactured by Heuer for Abercrombie & Fitch in the 1960’s. A riff on a moonphase complication, the tide indicator features a dedicated pusher for easy adjustment while travelling, giving the Seafarer an additional pusher at 9, adding to its distinctive look. Functionality aside, the Seafarer’s featured an immensely appealing graphic sensibility that has led to the popularity and collectability (and pricing) of vintage examples.
While there were several variants of the original Seafarers, the version chosen for the 2026 model is particularly attractive. Based on the new “glass box” format in 42mm, the new Seafarer features an opaline dial with 18k gold-plated dial furniture and hands, and replicates the beautiful sea-foam green and deep mustard of vintage references on the subdials. It’s just lovely. The addition of gold accents works quite well, bringing out the warmth of the opaline surface and complementing the highlight colors.
They also snuck in a date at six, which the Hodinkee collab omitted. A necessity for broader market appeal, as explained, it didn’t distract in person. Frankly, I only noticed in photos after the event. Also, considering the tide indicator can be used as a moonphase, hence the crescent mark, having a date has some logic to it as well.
The 42mm case is likely to be a sticking point for some, understandably. While I, too, would have preferred they had used the 39mm Carrera case, the “magic” of the glass box is that it wears well, even at this larger size. The lug-to-lug is a manageable 48.6mm, which sat nicely on my 6.75” wrist. While I’d still say it looked big, it didn’t look too big. My larger concern was that it’s tall at 14.4mm. The massive crystal accounts for a healthy chunk of that, but as the dial curves up with it, it doesn’t visually reduce the height as much. If I had to choose between a smaller diameter or a thinner manual-wound version, I would go for the latter.
The BOR bracelet also improved the fit. The end link actually sits behind the lug’s end, allowing the bracelet to begin falling earlier. The links themselves are also on the shorter side, creating more pivot points across the bracelet. The end result is a silky, flowy bacelet that doesn’t fight the natural shape of your wrist. One caveat, however, is that there is no micro-adjustment on the clasp.
The TH20-04 caliber is worth mentioning as well. A column-wheel chronograph, it features 31-jewels, a date, a tide/moonphase indicator, a frequency of 28,800 bph, and an 80-hour power reserve. The 80-hour reserve stands out, as even 72-hour chronographs are uncommon.
In fairness, my experience with the Carrera Seafarer was very short, so I can’t comment on what it’s like to wear it in everyday situations, which is a truer test. With that said, of the watches I saw at LVMH’s Watch Week, it’s the model that left the biggest impression. I recall when the “glass box” Carreras were first introduced in 2023, I came away from the meeting somewhat in awe. I felt that they were the best example of a modernized take on a vintage watch I had seen. They still are. They clearly refer to the past, and pay due respect to it, and yet feel completely contemporary. The Seafarer, at least visually speaking, does this as well. The vintage cues are unmistakable, stronger than on the mainline versions, and yet they don’t look artificial in the new case. The liberties with it worked out, creating a new design worthy of its vaunted name.
The Carrera Seafarer is priced at $8,800. That’s a lot, and there’s no way around it, though it is in keeping with Carrera pricing. I wish TAG’s pricing model competed with Tudor rather than Omega, leaving Zenith as the higher four-figure to low five-figure brand within the LVMH structure. That would make them a more unique offering within the industry. But hey, that’s just my two cents. TAG Heuer
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