On Monday evening in Los Angeles, Omega celebrated Global James Bond Day with a launch party for the latest collection of Seamaster Diver 300Ms to join the Omega x James Bond Universe–including their first Spectre-themed watches ever. With CEO Raynald Aeschlimann on-hand and surrounded by a collection of iconic props from the Bond films (including Agent Primo’s bionic eyeball from No Time To Die), Omega displayed some of these new Bond references publicly for the first time.
At the core of the new collection are a pair of non-limited steel models, a James Bond Edition (ref. 210.30.42.20.03.004) and a Spectre Edition (ref. 210.30.42.20.01.023). Omega will also offer a duo of limited edition models rendered in platinum-gold: the Bond-themed ref. 210.83.42.20.03.001 and the Spectre-themed ref. 210.83.42.20.01.001. The limited edition watches will be sold exclusively in sets that include one of the limited edition Bond or Spectre watches and a numbered example (1-77) of the corresponding non-limited steel model. The numbered editions of the steel models get their own reference numbers, but don’t differ from the non-limited watches in any meaningful way. So, while the collection technically boasts six new references, it’s really only four new watches. Got it?
All of the watches in the new series share the familiar 42mm case diameter with the current production model Seamaster 300M, but the new models are a hair thicker at 14.23 mm. While fans that have been holding out hope for a downsized take on the beloved diver may feel that they’ve died another day with this release, the truth is the new Seamasters still wear quite comfortably on their steel mesh straps and the taller case doesn’t feel like a dramatic change to the standard 300M recipe in-the-metal. Omega has also opted to stick with its tried-and-true Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806 movement to power all of the watches in the collection. So while there’s nothing new under-the-hood here, that’s not necessarily a bad thing when it comes to this powerplant.
As for the watches’ visual charms, the Bond Edition retains the Seamaster 300M’s engraved wave motif dial, but twists the look with a deep navy blue finish. The dark dial found on the Bond model is offset by a brighter titanium bezel insert, which gives it a unique look among the Diver 300Ms in Omega’s current line up. The watch also features the Bond family crest at the 12 o’clock hour marker and it’s a party-in-the-back, where you’ll find a tremendous rotor that’s been engraved with the 007 logo and gun barrel imagery.
The Spectre Edition has a decidedly utilitarian look that contrasts the Bond model. While the Spectre watch is intended to be spiritually aligned with the shadowy cabal of Bond baddies, it’s the hero of the two watches–at least for our money. The Spectre reference gets a matte black dial and a tough looking textured black ceramic bezel insert. Its display caseback also features a sizable rotor, this time emblazoned with the modern iteration of Spectre’s psuedo-cephalopod logo. This watch infuses the Diver 300M form with an understated style that’s perhaps more rugged than sinister.
The limited edition platinum-gold watches are obviously more upscale pieces. These watches feature handmade leather straps in place of the Milanese mesh, and what we believe are guilloche dials in place of the laser-engraved aluminum found on the non-LEs. The limited edition sets retail at around $90k, making them a novelty reserved for either the most well-heeled Bond nerds or Omega completists–especially those that want both a Bond and Spectre set. Despite the pricepoint, Omega claims that many of the limited sets are already spoken for.
Omega’s relationship with the hallowed Bond IP is as intrinsically tied to their brand identity as the Speedmaster’s history with NASA is at this point. It’s a relationship that extends back over 30 years now and one that ushered a generation of enthusiasts into the watch space, with many of us first romanticizing wristwatches under the influence of Pierce Brosnan and/or Daniel Craig’s portrayals of the MI6 man. The Seamaster Divers worn by those respective Bonds were the first grail watches of many budding collectors–including several industry colleagues that proudly wore their personal 300Ms to Monday’s launch event. Each one of those watches had a sentimental story attached to it, and that’s something that’s not lost on Omega’s leadership–least of all CEO and President Raynald Aeschlimann.
Aeschlimann was all smiles while discussing the brand’s relationship with Bond and was particularly thrilled about their first (deliberate) foray into watches for villains.
On the brand’s 32 years with Bond, Aeschlimann told Worn & Wound “For me, the relationship with Bond is what matters. It’s not just another watch with a name on it, it’s about the depth of the relationship Omega has with Bond. It’s been over 30 years and I’ve done all of the movies and been in all of the discussions, so for me personally, this celebration and this collection is so much more than a product placement. Today the relationship between Omega and James Bond is even more important than ever, and it’s about shared values. When we started working with Bond, people would ask why we would provide our watches when we knew the film production was going to change everything and modify them. Today people understand it and that’s why we’re part of the Bond DNA.”
When asked why the brand has finally ventured into watches for villains, the CEO explained “We’re constantly celebrating our relationship with Bond. Daniel Craig knows watches so well, so when I asked him to create a watch together for his next movie and we worked together on the No Time to Die watch, it was obvious that it would be a real James Bond watch. That watch is still in the top ten of our sales, and if we had done a limited edition, it would have sold out.
“It was always in my mind to do something with Spectre because part of all of us is Spectre. They’re just the best enemy. You love to hate them as an enemy, and you need that for a good story. The other part of it is the actors that have played Spectre have been fantastic. We always talk about the actors that have played James Bond because when you play Bond, you’re Bond forever. But we should not forget about the actors that have played these villains, whether it was Gert Fröbe as Goldfinger or Javier Bardem as Silva. We wanted to celebrate them, too. It wasn’t just about creating a second watch, it’s celebrating what we consider the best enemy, and I love that story.”
It was obvious from speaking with him that Aeschlimann’s passion for the Bond universe extends beyond sales figures and board room politics. He even demonstrated a bit of his own evasive spywork when we pressed him for answers on who the next actor to play Bond might be, but done with a coy smile. We know you know, Raynald.
Ultimately none of these new Seamasters are reinventing the model or moving the needle much in adding something unique to the lineup. If there’s any valid criticism here, it’s that the standard production models that most people will be considering from the new lineup feature pretty safe aesthetic choices, and that we’d still love to see a smaller version of the Diver 300M released in the near future. That said, they’re genuinely good looking, fun iterations of a well-loved watch. And for those of us that enjoy the full spectrum of Bond lore and appreciate Omega’s relationship with the franchise, the addition of Spectre-themed watches and what the brand may continue to do with that concept is exciting. Perhaps these watches are just an appetizer for a grander release when the next film is announced? For now, that dossier remains sealed. Omega
