What We Know
The hottest Vacheron Constantin collection is celebrating its thirtieth anniversary this year, and the brand is paying tribute with a new version of one of my personal favorite watches from the brand. Sure, earlier this year we got the return of the 2500V, which is celebration enough, but the new limited-edition azure blue Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a limited edition that honors the first generation of the collection.
Below is a picture of the current third generation and the 1996 first generation, itself a successor of sorts to the 222 in 1977 and the 1975 Chronomètre Royal before it. Yes, Vacheron has done a blue version of this watch before—and has released a few other colors recently, including a bold red—but now the same 41.5mm by 8.1mm white gold case gets a more muted, less saturated azure blue soleil and lacquer treatment, with white and light blue printed text and applied indices with Super-LumiNova.
The movement is the same Caliber 1120 QP/1 automatic movement that is only 4.05 mm thick. Yes, other brands are slowly introducing perpetual calendars with a crown-adjustment system, but while this still uses caseband pushers, the benefit is a watch that measures 1.5mm thinner than the similarly wide Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The watch runs at a slightly slower 2.75 Hz and has only 40 hours of power reserve, but again, at the thin profile you get, the wearability should more than make up for any small downsides.
Another huge benefit is the easily changeable strap system. The watch comes on a white gold bracelet with a triple-blade folding clasp that has an adjustment system, but it can quickly be swapped with the click of two buttons to either of the included white or blue rubber straps (with an interchangeable 18K white gold pin buckle). The watch is limited, however, to 200 numbered pieces, and retails for $132,000.
What We Think
Obviously I’m a fan of this model, so while this is only technically a dial refresh, it’s a good opportunity to sing its praises. Aside from the slightly weak power reserve, I think the watch continues to check all of the boxes for an integrated bracelet perpetual calendar, and despite my continued love of AP, it puts me in a hard place if I had to pick between the two.
Comparing prices, for only $6,000 more than AP (or thereabouts) you get a watch in full 18k white gold versus the steel Royal Oak, and it’s thinner. It is also finally holding value on the secondary market (after being a bit of a steal for a while at a bit under retail), so the price box seems checked too. Vacheron is having a moment, and while I’m not sure how much a slightly different dial might drive demand, more options are often good options.
The Basics
Brand: Vacheron Constantin
Model: Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Azure Dial
Reference Number: 4300V/220G-H119
Diameter: 41.5mm
Thickness: 8.1mm
Case Material: 18K white gold
Dial Color: Lacquered azure
Indexes: Applied and printed (in lighter blue)
Lume: Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 50m
Strap/Bracelet: 18K white gold bracelet with satin-finished, polished links in the shape of a half Maltese cross, secured by an 18K white gold triple-blade folding clasp with pushers and an adjustment system; Second strap in white rubber and third strap in Denim blue rubber, interchangeable 18K white gold pin buckle
The Movement
Caliber: 1120 QP/1
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar
Diameter: 29.6mm
Thickness: 4.05mm
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 2.75 Hz
Jewels: 36
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: Geneva Seal
Pricing & Availability
Price: $132,000
Availability: No
Limited Edition: 200 pieces
For more, click here.
