What We Know
A refresh of Breguet’s Marine line, inspired by Abraham-Louis Breguet’s history of marine chronometers and scientific instruments, has been coming for some time now. If you’ve been following the sometimes sweeping, sometimes subtle, almost always welcome changes to Breguet’s catalog over the last few years (and especially last year during the brand’s year-long 250th fête), you knew the Marine was one of the few stones left unturned.
While the Experimentale 1 (a groundbreaking achievement) launched a new design language for the Marine last year, today’s refresh is more subtle. The first thing that you probably will notice is that the eponymous “Breguet” numerals now replace the Roman ones on the previous models. But wait. There’s more.
Previous versions of both models had either soleil finishing centered around the boxed brand name (and number) or a larger, irregular wave guilloché, depending on the execution. In both new models, the watches now feature the new, finer “Quai de l’Horloge” guilloché pattern launched to honor the brand’s 250th Anniversary last year, with a circular brushed hour track. Rather than just doing the same dial treatment for each case material, regardless of the complication, the brand has a mix of dials ranging from blue (in different shades) to grey and black. In general, the case material matches the tone of the hands, but there is an exception.
The cases and movements have remained largely the same, 42.3mm by 13.9mm with a 50.7mm lug-to-lug for the chronographs cased in 18k white or rose gold or titanium. All the watches come on newly designed and more casual rubber straps or case-matching bracelets. For the chronograph, the 4Hz flyback chronograph 582QA movement is used, which now eliminates the 12-hour chronograph counter and sticks with two subregisters. The movement has a 48-hour power reserve.
For the ref. 5517 time-and-date version, the rose gold model has a fully black dial, though with the same finishing, and the titanium version has rose indices, hands, and other dial furniture. You can see the other variations below. The other main aesthetic changes are the return to the script Breguet-applied logo for all models, plus the placement of the numbered movement mark, which is now placed lower on the dial, rather than under the logo up top. The 5517 measures 40mm by 11.5mm with a 47.7mm lug-to-lug and comes in the same case materials and strap options.
The movement inside is the caliber 777A and, like the chronograph, runs at 4 Hz and is protected by 100 meters of water resistance. Both movements are automatic, and the gold rotor is designed and finished with a ship’s pilot’s wheel. All models have display casebacks so you can see the details and finishing, and come with a five-year warranty.
Retail prices vary depending on case material and bracelet option. For the 5517, prices start at $26,400 in titanium and go up to $80,300 in gold on a bracelet. The chronographs start at $33,000 and go up to $93,000 in a similar fashion.
What We Think
If I had to guess, I’d imagine the Marine collection is among the least purchased by Breguet enthusiasts, but one of the strongest commercially for general consumers. A refresh to the collection, even if minor, was probably a bit overdue and a welcome addition.
To be fair, neither of these is expected to be a dive watch (a true dive watch from Breguet would be in high demand, and of course, I’ve asked for it), but this is their sportiest offering and something we’ve basically come to accept is needed from any brand. The subdials on the chronograph, to my taste, are a bit small, but I do like the Breguet numerals far more than I ever did the Roman ones on the past versions. I think this is a solid revamp.
The Basics
Brand: Breguet
Model: Marine
Reference Number: 5517 (time and date); 5527 (chronograph)
Diameter: 40mm (time); 42.3mm (chronograph)
Thickness: 11.5mm (time); 13.9mm (chronograph)
Lug-to-Lug: 47.7mm (time); 50.7mm (chronograph)
Case Material: White gold, rose gold, or titanium
Dial Color: 18K hand-guilloché “Quai de l’Horloge” gold lacquered in black, grey, or blue gradient, with black, blue, or grey hour ring depending on model
Indexes: Applied hours, others with printing
Lume: Hours and minutes
Water Resistance: 100m
Strap/Bracelet: Rubber with 3-blade titanium folding clasp or case-matching bracelet
The Movement
Caliber: 777A (time); 582QA (chronograph)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date (time); Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, flyback chronograph with 30-minute counter (chronograph)
Power Reserve: 55 (time); 48 (chronograph)
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4Hz
Jewels: 26 (time); 28 (chronograph)
Chronometer Certified: No
Pricing & Availability
Price: $26,400/$48,900 on strap and $30,000/$80,300 on bracelet (time); $33,000/$59,400 on strap and $36,600/$93,000 on bracelet (chronograph)
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No
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