This week on The Business of Watches: a fresh take on the new releases we saw at Geneva Watch Days and what they might mean for the market. Ahead of a special request summer fondue dinner, Tim, TanTan, and Andy discuss what they saw, what they liked and didn’t like from the slew of novelties presented during the event.
We go deep into the debut of Gallet, discussing how the entry-level offering from Breitling’s House of Brands will stack up against the competition and how it will re-enter the company into the cut-throat $3,000 to $6,000 price category at a time when the Swiss industry is struggling to halt the slide in volumes.
We also talk about Bulgari, Oris, Frederique Constant, Girard-Perregaux, MB&F, and the latest MAD Editions, and why, when it comes to Doxa, you can’t have just one. Plus, what the return of a new Northflag (now one word) heralds for Tudor.
There’s plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversation. Please leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we’ll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn.
Show Notes
0:30 Tim Jeffreys
0:32 TanTan Wang
3:38 Gallet (brand website)
5:28 Introducing: The Gallet Flying Officer (Hodinkee)
5:50 Gallet Revives Vintage Fan Favorites With New “Classics” Multichrons (Hodinkee)
8:44 Business News: Breitling’s House Of Brands Unveils New Executive Leadership With Georges Kern As Group CEO (Hodinkee)
11:30 Breitling To Relaunch Gallet Confirming Ambitions To Become Multi-Brand Watchmaker (Hodinkee)
12:55 Introducing: The Breitling Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis (Hodinkee)
18:11 Essays: Prices, Volumes, And Passion: The Business Of Watches In 2025 And What To Expect In 2026 (Hodinkee)
22:30 Introducing: Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date And Classics Moneta Handwinding (Hodinkee)
26:41 Introducing: Bulgari’s Unexpected Dual Time Octo Finissimo With Vianney Halter, Plus A “Dazzle” Camo Release (Hodinkee)
30:45 Introducing: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Limited Edition Ref. 103534 (Hodinkee)
32:38 Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39 (Hodinkee)
35:50 Introducing: The Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition (Live Pics) (Hodinkee)
41:19 Introducing: Oris’ Big Crown Pointer Date Goes Small With A New 29mm Version (Hodinkee)
43:15 IntroducingThe Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 (Hodinkee)
48:30 Hands-On: The M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese (Hodinkee)
49:48 Business News: Corum Is Back: With A New Admiral, Fresh Designs, And A Plan To Return Brand To Former Glory (Hodinkee)
56:19 Introducing: The Tudor Northflag Returns With Dual Time (Hodinkee)
1:02:14 Best fondue restaurants in Geneva (geneva.info)
