What We Know
If you’ve been on “Watch Instagram” since Watches & Wonders, you’ve likely seen today’s big launch. From the minds of Wei Koh and industry insider Guillaume Tetu, the new brand Legare (from the Latin meaning “to bequeath”) has been shared around during an extended soft launch to potential clients and some press, starting back during the big watch fair. However, their first watch, the Chapter 1 AGP Inverted, didn’t officially launch until today, so if you’ve been looking for coverage and not finding it, that’s why.
The Chapter 1 AGP Inverted comes in two distinct executions and immediately caught my attention because of the reference that inspired it (and from which it takes its name). Because of that, it’s a watch expressly made for deep-cut watch enthusiasts who know their history and appreciate independent watchmaking.
In 1932, a 17-year-old student named Albert-Gustave Piguet undertook a watchmaking challenge that only five others at the Vallée de Joux School of Watchmaking would do from 1932 to 1934: he made a pocket watch regulated by two large split bimetallic balance wheels, averaged by a differential. These six examples are as coveted as they are influential to the watchmaking space. One inspired Philippe Dufour’s “Duality.” Even more influential was Piguet himself, who later worked at Lemania and on the caliber 2310. Now, his double-balance watch has been revived again by Legare.
The watch closely resembles the movement of the Piguet pocket watch, with two large balances with sweeping balance cocks, a central differential (now attached to a small second), and a wishbone bridge for the mainspring barrel. But the entire movement has been inverted, putting the moving train on full display from the front. To keep it compact, the movement uses side-angled lever escapements. The floating sapphire dials feature printed minute and second tracks and applied hour markers, mixing Roman numerals with square pyramid markers. All this sits above one of two finishes: the most traditional (the model called “Elegant”) has Geneva-striped German silver, while the “Darth” has a matte black rhodium finish.
Maybe the most impressive parts, beyond the great finishing and obvious aesthetic appeal, are the size and the price. The case is made of grade 5 titanium and measures a compact 37.5mm by 9.95mm, with 50m water resistance. The double balance movement runs at 21,600 vph and is manually wound, with at least a 50-hour power reserve. The hands are mirror-polished, flame-blued steel. The case has a very modern, angular aesthetic with high, raised flanks, a stepped bezel, and sharp, dropped lugs, with a variety of beveled surfaces.
Rather than obfuscating the brand’s development and creation, the brand is very clear about its suppliers. They’re all Swiss, all within around 100km of Neuchâtel. The concept behind Legare is to start each chapter with a forgotten horological idea and imagine it as it would have evolved into the modern age. The founders are obviously deeply knowledgeable about movements and suppliers, but they, of course, did not design the movement themselves (and it would be a bit much to expect that).
Their press release clearly states that beyond the idea and their involvement in each step along the way, the development, sourcing, final assembly, and quality control are coordinated by GLS2F in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The movement is made by PURTEC, the case and buckle by UM2, and finished by Polissage des Franches-Montages. Dials are made by FABRIKA, with sapphire components by SEBAL and hands by WAEBER HMS.
Regardless of who makes it, the watch is pretty stunning. It’s basically everything you’d want to pack into a watch for indie enthusiasts, and without seeing the watch in person (yet), I can see that it’s got the finishing to back up the history. With that in mind, the price surprised me. Both versions are limited to 25 pieces and retail for what feels like a reasonable CHF 81,944.
What We Think
If you had asked me a few years ago which two movements I’d like to see a brand leverage more, two of the top suggestions have now been made. The first was the relaunch of Urban Jurgensen with the UJ-1 remontoir tourbillon movement, done with Derek Pratt’s original design of a remontoir inside the tourbillon cage. Check. Now, the Albert-Gustave Piguet watch lives again (again, after Philippe Dufour shelved his series after only 10 watches). If I can get the technical diagrams, I think it would be interesting to take a look at both this watch and the Dufour Duality to see how they have tackled the technical challenges of the double-balance watch with a differential.
This is an entirely different concept from Journe’s Resonance watches, where the balances must be closely regulated and closely positioned to synchronize. Here, the balances are completely independent but regulated by the differential. The finishing looks quite nice in the pictures—unlike many similar watches—the time seems quite legible. While a bit busier, if I were buying, I’d take the “Elegant” model. The team, Koh especially, knows his watches and, unsurprisingly, knows how to make something that comes across as catnip to collectors. One other important note: since Koh serves as the chair of the GPHG, he has promised not to allow his watches to take part.
The Basics
Brand: Legare
Model: Chapter 1 AGP Inverted
Reference Number: LC1-AGP01-A Inverted Ti5 – Elegant; LC1-AGP01-B Inverted Ti5 – Darth
Diameter: 37.5mm
Thickness: 9.95mm
Case Material: Grade 5 titanium
Dial Color: Open dial with either Geneva-striped untreated German silver or matte black rhodium
Indexes: Sapphire disc with printed minute and seconds track and applied indices
Lume: None
Water Resistance: 50m
Strap/Bracelet: Straps measuring 20 to 16mm taper with grade 5 titanium buckle
The Movement
Caliber: LC1-AGP01-A / LC1-AGP01-B
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds with double balance and a differential
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 21,600 bph
Jewels: 34
Chronometer Certified: No
Pricing & Availability
Price: CHF 81,944 excluding taxes
Availability: Now, via the brand
Limited Edition: Yes, 25 pieces of each
For more, click here.
