What We Know
This week, Vacheron Constantin added two new 34.5mm Overseas models to the collection. There’s a new version in steel with a red dial and a tone-on-tone version in 18k pink gold with a matching gold-toned dial. No, these new additions aren’t the most groundbreaking introductions from Vacheron in recent times, but they are quite attractive and do well to flesh out the brand’s small collection of mechanical mid-sized Overseas models.
The distinct visual cues of the Overseas are all present on these models, with Vacheron’s Maltese cross motif prominently shown on the bezel, crown, bracelet, and buckle. Proportions of certain elements like the bezel on this smaller Overseas feel quite thick, thanks to its relative sizing compared to the very compact overall dimensions of the watch, with a diameter of 34.5mm and a thickness of 9.33mm. Water resistance is rated to 150 meters, and there is a screw-down crown. Continuing the appeal of customization across the line, both versions come with three interchangeable straps: a full metal bracelet (with toolless micro-adjust), a rubber strap, and an alligator leather strap.
The interchangeable strap options for the red dial Overseas.
Though Vacheron is branding this as “a feminine take on sport-chic,” the two executions released this week certainly can work on a wide array of wrists, thanks to eye-catching but versatile lacquered and sunray-brushed dials. The red dial of ref. 4600V/200A-H127 stands out, not just in hue, but also thanks to the polished and recessed ring that separates the inner dial (and framed date window) from the outer printed minutes track.
I believe this is the first time we’ve seen this subtle addition in any of the compact Overseas models, and I think it’s a great touch that adds contrast and dimension to a very small dial. The full pink gold model, ref. 4600V/200R-H128, gives off a much more timeless appeal, if any of the previous pink gold references with colored dials didn’t do it for you. Technically, there is already a compact pink gold Overseas in the catalog with a matching dial. But it’s ever-so-slightly larger at 35mm with a gemset bezel, offering a different appeal entirely.
Powering both watches, and seen through an exhibition caseback, is the in-house 1088/1 caliber, a small (20.8mm in diameter) self-winding movement beating away at 28,800 VpH with a 40-hour power reserve. The steel Overseas 34.5mm is priced at $26,600, and the pink gold Overseas 34.5mm is priced at $59,500.
What We Think
As I mentioned above, these new releases don’t represent the most exciting changes on paper, but that doesn’t stop them from being good-looking watches. In fact, I’d argue that these two versions are probably my favorite out of the collection of 34.5mm Overseas right now. Sure, the steel version with a blue dial is unashamedly Vacheron, but none of the colorful dials paired with pink gold did it quite right.
Here, the red dial feels fresh, and the pink-gold-toned dial feels classic, though I would have absolutely loved it if we had seen a yellow gold version introduced instead. There are, of course, a few compromises that I find with the midsize Overseas. Proportionally, I actually think it’s a bit too small even on my smaller 6.5″ wrist, which means that you can’t necessarily consider this as an immediate alternative if you find the 41mm Overseas a bit too big—trying this on in person is a must. We’ve yet to see a more versatile size option between 34.5mm and 41mm, save for the unobtanium 39.5mm Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V limited edition released earlier this year. Additionally, I think it’s important to note that the 1088/1 caliber does not possess the Geneva seal, despite the steel model being priced as it is.
The most intriguing part of this introduction, however, is the lack of a matching 41mm time-and-date Overseas with this red dial. Given the recent additions of red to other large Overseas models like the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin and the Overseas Tourbillon, it’s surprising to see the mid-sized Overseas get this color and not its larger (and more popular) cousin. Perhaps Vacheron is saving that one for a rainy day.
The Basics
Brand: Vacheron Constantin
Model: Overseas
Reference Number: 4600V/200A-H127 (Steel); 4600V/200R-H128 (Pink Gold)
Diameter: 34.5mm
Thickness: 9.33mm
Case Material: Steel or 18k pink gold
Dial Color: Red or pink-gold-tone
Indexes: Hand-applied
Lume: Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 150 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Interchangeable bracelet, alligator leather strap, and rubber strap.
The Movement
Caliber: 1088/1
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Diameter: 20.8mm
Thickness: 9.33mm
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 VpH
Jewels: 24
Chronometer Certified: No
Pricing & Availability
Price: $26,600 (Steel); $59,500 (Pink Gold)
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No
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