Among the ever-evolving sizes and colors of modern Tudor, we now have the latest (and smallest and most colorful) iteration of the brand’s dive-inspired chronograph, the Black Bay Chronograph 39. Dubbed the “Bumblebee” for its bright yellow dial and black accents, it marks the progressive 39-ification of Tudor’s core lineup and forms what I think will be a very appealing new offering for the brand.
When Tudor returned to the American market in 2012, the brand’s core offerings evolved around an initial 41mm footprint. This includes early hits like the Black Bay, the Heritage Chrono, and the Ranger. Then, in 2017, Tudor announced the Black Bay Chronograph 79350, a 41mm steel chronograph with 200 meters of water resistance and snowflake hands. Since then, the Black Bay Chronograph range has been tweaked, improved, and expanded considerably, with additional colors (including the recent pink and flamingo blue). But while we saw the Black Bay eventually offer the 39mm 58 range and the Ranger drop to 39mm (and later to 36mm), the Chronograph range remained steadfast at 41mm.
While 41mm is within the range for a conventionally sized modern sports watch, the enthusiast taste has shifted toward the 39mm sweet spot (likely at least in part due to the success of the Black Bay 58 and the Pelagos 39). Additionally, as slightly smaller cases continue to be in vogue, more attention is (and was) being paid to case thickness. The 41mm spec of the Black Bay Chrono wears well, but it’s not small at 41 x 14.4 x 50mm. With the new 39mm spec, Tudor’s core chronograph offering has been expanded to align with both audience preferences and the brand’s own playbook.
Tudor chronographs old and new, with a recent 41mm Black Bay Chrono in the center (photo credit: Mark Kauzlarich).
And on the wrist, the new Black Bay Chrono 39 is excellent. If you can remember the difference between a BB41 and a BB58, it’s a very similar delta between the 41 and 39mm case sizes. Additionally, the thickness is now 13.1mm, and the lug-to-lug is now just 47mm. Most of my day-to-day watches, including my well-worn Pelagos 39, fall into a similar size (the P39 is 11.8mm thick and 47mm lug-to-lug), and the new BB Chrono 39 felt right at home on my 7-inch wrist. The case feels nicely balanced and not at all slab-sided. While more compact in proportions, the Black Bay case design remains, and we still find a large crown between the pair of screw-down Daytona-style chronograph pushers.
Also, lest you forget that this is a descendant of the Black Bay – a dive watch – the new BB Chrono 39 still offers 200 meters of water resistance, albeit with an automotive-esque tachymeter bezel. The design is very Tudor, and if you zoom out a bit, especially with the previous context of the Big Block chronos and the more recent Heritage Chrono series, quite uncommon.
There are other subtle tweaks at play, including a redesigned hour hand that is a bit shorter. This is perhaps to limit the extent to which the Snowflake hand can cover either of the subdials. Also note the use of black metal surrounds for the markers and hands, which is a personal favorite of mine and adds additional contrast to the already very punchy dial.
In person, the dial is just so yellow. With the black subdials, it has the presence of high-viz safety equipment. The steel case and the added shine of the screw-down pushers help to balance the black bezel, but even with the smaller proportions, this is not a subtle watch. The yellow dial is neither overly green nor orange in its coloring, and the execution gives the watch a happy personality that, to my taste, feels more conventional than the recent pink or blue dials used in the 41mm lineup.
Dial aside, for those keeping score, the steel bracelet is fully brushed, rivet-free, and has a T-Fit tool-less micro-adjust. I also appreciate, and try always to mention, that the continued use of a largely blank caseback is great as it leaves ample room for engraving. Engraved watches are cool.
Between the recent Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph and now this lovely and compact Tudor Chrono, I may be finding a brand new interest in chronographs (an interest that has eluded me in the past).
Priced at $6,725, the Black Bay Chrono 39 hits the same price range we’ve seen for other chronograph examples from the brand. While the original Black Bay Chronograph hit the market a decade ago at $5,050, the standard Black Bay Chrono 41 retails for $7,000 ( with prices rising for models with some gold or carbon). As such, by a delta of $150, what might be the most appealing model in the chronograph range is also the least expensive in the current catalog.
Competition
Size is the main point here, so let’s get close to 39mm (at 41, I figure it loses the plot). The price should be close to $7,000 or less. I won’t hold most chronographs to 200m water resistance, but a bracelet is a must.
Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space ($8,900, above/left) 39.9 x 13.4 x 48mm, manually wound, METAS Master Chronometer 3861, comes on a bracelet, good to 50 meters. You’re getting a more classic, well-certified movement. Sizing is similar. One of the best watches in Omega’s current catalog. More conventional (arguably setting a convention) than the Tudor, especially in color.
Omega Speedmaster 38 ($6,300, above/center) 38 x 14.7 x 44.9mm, automatic column wheel co-axial movement, on a bracelet, 100 meters of water resistance. Great option if you like the design and proportions. I believe the Tudor wears better and has a more balanced dial. Not sure anyone is cross-shopping the two, but this is less cash than the Tudor and doesn’t cut any corners in terms of mechanics or build quality.
Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” 39mm ($7,550, above/right) 39 x 13.9 x 46mm, Th-80 automatic chronograph movement with a 12-hour totalizer (very nice), 80 hours of power reserve, and 100 meters of water resistance. This feels like the Tudors’ strongest direct competition. It’s offered in a handful of versions, wears really well, and the Carrera name has real legacy in the chronograph world. If you want a more automotive and more subtle (non-yellow) option, this is likely the move.
Breitling Top Time B01 Racing ($8,050, above/left) 38 x 13.07 x 44.1mm, Breitling B01 automatic movement with a 30-minute total measure and 70 hours of power reserve. Most Breitling options are too big for this comparison, and this model certainly pushes the price range, but it has an automotive theme, offers 100 meters of water resistance, and if the Tudor isn’t your taste, then maybe this is?
Longines Spirit Pilot Flyback ($5,550, above/right) 39.5 x 13.4 x 47.4mm with a manually wound 4Hz flyback chronograph movement with 68 hours of power reserve. This is the nerdy value play for an interesting chronograph around the example price point, and honestly, Longines has a handful of chronos that could have made this list. You have to be ok with gilt (and you have the option of titanium), but you get 100 meters of water resistance and a dang flyback function for a good bit less than the Tudor. Longines continues to focus on value, and this model is a standout in the space.
There is some great competition in that list, and honestly, if you go up to 41mm, the world really opens up as you would also have to consider IWC and some additional options from Breitling. That said, the point here is the size, so I tried not to break into 40mm+. It’s a competitive category, so be sure to leave a comment to let me know if I missed any great competition for the Tudor. Ultimately, the new 39mm Tudor is a great option in its category.
Wrap It Up
Ultimately, assuming you can source one from your dealer, you’re either going to love the yellow or wait for a ping from the Hodinkee app when Tudor eventually launches additional colors. This is the Tudor way, after all, and I can now add this lovely yellow chronograph to my own mental (in more ways than one) wishlist, alongside the hope for a non-gilt Black Bay 58 GMT, or a Pelagos 39 GMT.
Poking fun aside, I really like this watch. Furthermore, I remain bullish on Tudor’s work in the 39mm size and cannot wait to see what they do with the model’s future expansion.
For more, visit Tudor online.
